Thursday, December 30, 2010

celebrities we'll see on billboards

From Christy Turlington to Natalie Portman, here are five of the most anticipated beauty campaigns for 2011.

Natalie Portman for Dior: The American actress has been making headlines everywhere lately for her performance in Black Swan. On Wednesday, Portman nabbed yet another leading role when Dior named her the new face of Miss Dior Chérie, one of the brand's iconic fragrances. A series of print ads shot by Tim Walker and a TV campaign shot by Sofia Coppola will be released in March. This is Portman's first time representing a beauty brand.

Lady Gaga for MAC: MAC Cosmetics has signed Lady Gaga on for a second year as the official spokeswoman for its Viva Glam campaign, benefiting the MAC Aids fund. The pop singer teamed up with Cyndi Lauper for its 2010 campaign, which MAC executives said was the most successful ever. The outlandish star, known for her larger-than-life persona, will pose solo in 2011. The ads will be shot by Nick Knight and styled by Nicola Formichetti.

Jennifer Lopez for L'Oréal: The American actress/singer has been unveiled as the new face of cosmetics giant L'Oreal Paris, joining Beyonce, Eva Longoria and Milla Jovovich as a global brand ambassador. Lopez inked a multi-year, multimillion-dollar contract with the company to represent a number of its lines, starting with ads for its EverSleek haircare products, slated to be released in January 2011.

Julia Restoin Roitfield for Lancôme: Following Kate Winslet, Julia Roberts, and Penelope Cruz, the daughter of stylish Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfield has been chosen as the new face of the French beauty brand. She fronts the new campaign for Lancôme's Ultra Lavande spring 2011 collection, shot by famed fashion photographer Mario Testino. Roitfield is also set to star in a campaign in Asia for Lancome's Blanc Expert line later in the year.

Christy Turlington for Avon: After serving as the face of Calvin Klein's Eternity fragrance, the ex-supermodel has partnered with the US beauty giant to launch Avon's new women's fragrance Slip Into, slated for release in January. The musky fragrance - with rosewood and orchid heart notes - is supposed to invoke the feeling of putting on a pair of glamorous high heels. The ad shows a very sultry Turlington in a blue dress and strappy heels.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Five Things to Know About "No Anorexia" Model Isabelle Caro

Isabelle Caro bared more than her soul in an attempt to educate others about the disorder ravaging her body.

The French model and actress, who famously stripped naked in 2007 for an Italian ad campaign depicting  the decidedly unglamorous and unhealthy effects of anorexia nervosa, died last month at 28 after "being sick for a long time," according to her acting coach.

Aside from the fact that Caro died way too young, here are five other things to know:

1. The truth of the situation: In later interviews, the 5-foot-tall Caro revealed that she weighed approximately 59 pounds when she posed for photographer Oliviero Toscani's "No Anorexia" campaign for the fashion house No.li.ta, which was featured in print and on billboards. Aside from the shockingly revealing photos, the campaign gained even more attention as it came in the wake of Brazilian model Ana Carolina Reston's death from an anorexia-related infection in 2006. Caro said that she had suffered from the eating disorder since she was 13. "I said if I can put my years of suffering to good use then it will not have been pointless," she told CBS News in 2007. "I know it's a shocking photo, and I want it to shock. It's really a warning that it is a serious illness."

Venturelli/WireImage.com
2. Reality bites: Caro served as a judge on France's Next Top Model and appeared on the second episode of Jessica Simpson's VH1 series The Price of Beauty earlier this year to talk about body image issues. "What you are doing right now makes you more beautiful and I hope women all over the world hear about the story," Simpson told Caro on the show. "And it is important to know that how skinny you are does not make you beautiful."

3. Nom de plume: Caro was an avid blogger and published author. In 2008, she penned the French-language book The Little Girl Who Didn't Want to Get Fat.

4. Possible side-effects: Confronted with the possibility that the "No Anorexia" campaign could turn into a point of pride for fellow sufferers of the disorder, Caro remained confident in its true message. "I don't think so," she replied when asked whether some girls would be inspired rather than horrified. "I hope not. To see my tailbone like an open wound, I show myself as I am. I'm not beautiful, my hair is ruined and I know I will never have long hair again. I've lost several teeth. My skin is dry. My breasts have fallen. No young girl wants to look like a skeleton...You couldn't believe anyone would want to look like that. I don't think there's any question about it."

5. Resting in peace: Acting coach Daniele Dubreuil-Prevot, who also called Caro's death "an absolute waste," said that the young woman's family only told a few close friends when she passed on Nov. 17. A small funeral was held in Paris.

 

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Get primed for 2011 with beauty and fashion tips

With a welcoming nod to 2011, now seems the perfect time to wrap our mind around making our lives easier and better, at least from a fashion and beauty aspect.

Maybe it's a beauty routine that needs consistency, a closet that's out of control or a better way of thinking about our self-image or age that will get us prepped and primed for another year.

With that in mind, we gleaned some quotes from celebrities, asked professionals to share their ideas and found little nuggets that just make us feel good.

• Amanda Jenkins, master hairstylist at Arrojo NYC: “Don't take your stress out on your hair. Tightly twisting it causes breakage.”

• Regina Dowling, Oklahoma native and founder of Glamour24-7.com: “Each year, one of the most glamorous things you can do is go shopping in your own closet. You will rediscover some old gems you forgot you had, and you can clear out the many things you'll never wear again. Give them to someone who needs them the most by donating the items to a nearby shelter. What an incredible feeling you get by doing that. There is nothing more glamorous than giving.”

• Natalie Portman, actress and new face for Miss Dior Cherie: “I think true elegance is just comfort in oneself.”

• Cindi Shelby, owner of Ruth Meyers: “Don't get in a rut by buying clothes and accessories that look so similar to what you already own. Push yourself out of your comfort zone to try a new color or style.”

• Alex Mendez-Kelley, owner of The MakeUp Bar: “It's never too late to get started on a good skin-care routine. Even women in their 50s can see vast improvement in their skin. It's never too late to learn a new trick, and it's certainly never too late to start with skin care. It's about forming good habits, and you're never too old or too young to start a good skin-care habit.”

• Bob Benham, owner of Balliets: “Accept yourself as you are and let your inner beauty shine through.”

• Actress Joan Collins: “I refuse to be defined by my age.”

• Trichology salon co-owner and stylist Greg Welchel: “Everything in the winter dries out, hair as well as skin. Shampooing less frequently, and the use of moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, along with a leave-in conditioner, will leave your hair shinier and healthier looking. Whenever possible, leave a little moisture in the hair by leaving it ‘cool to the touch' when blow drying. Control static electricity by spraying hair spray on a brush, and brush it through the ends. As silly as it sounds, rubbing dryer sheets on your hair helps as well. And, of course, it's always important to use a styling product of some sort, or your hair will fly away with static.”

Monday, December 27, 2010

Professional fashion trade shows in Paris bolster Web presence

Prestigious Paris fairs are strengthening their online presences and bolstering digital communication to complement their events. Here is what four of the most distinguished trade shows in the City of Lights offer attendees.

Tranoï: The men's ready-to-wear fashion fair launched its first e-commerce site this past September, featuring a selection of current season products from each designer exhibiting at the show, as well as daily updates from a team of professional bloggers. "Our aim here is to communicate every day of the year, and not just four days, four times a year," Michael Hadida, the organizer of Tranoï, told Women's Wear Daily.
http://www.tranoi.com/

Prêt à Porter Paris: One of the leading international fashion trade shows, Prêt à Porter Paris expects to receive some 1,400 exhibitors for its upcoming edition in January. The fair's website provides an interactive map of the event's layout, which is designed to help visitors plan their schedule in advance, as well as a personal shopping service. "In one glance, one should be able to get what the salon is about. Easy access to information is also important...it's about facilitating services for both exhibitors or visitors, such as enabling them to download badges to save time," Muriel Piaser, the trade fair's director, told Women's Wear Daily.
http://www.pretparis.com/

Who's Next: Dedicated to showing young fashion labels and conceptual brands, Who's Next launched a blog more than two and a half years ago featuring pictures of exhibiting designers' collections. The talent is pre-screened and selected by the Who's Next event team. The blog draws 3,000 visits per month, and nearly 10,000 monthly visits during the timing of a competition run twice yearly by the site, which offers ten designers the chance to win free exhibit stands at the Who's Next and Première Classe trade shows. Who's Next also operates a Facebook page, in conjunction with Première Classe, that boasts more than 4,000 followers.
http://www.whosnext.com/
http://www.whosnextblog.com/

Première Vision: Twice a year, no fewer than 700 weavers from 28 countries attend Première Vision to present their textile collections. The salon organizers said they are bolstering Web services for visitors, such as pre-registration and links to exhibitors' sites, with the project due to be finalized in 2011. As of now, Première Vision already offers an online service allowing visitors to pre-register online, as well as pre-order textiles from any fair exhibitor. There is also an e-book sold online that offers an in-depth look at all the exhibitors and their products.
http://www.premierevision.fr/

Sunday, December 26, 2010

William Rast hits Target

William Rast is the latest designer label to board the Target train, with a capsule collection that hit stores just in time for the holidays.

Unlike most of Target's high-low partnerships, which have relatively little (if anything) to offer the fashion-forward male, this one has just as much to offer the guys as it does the girls. The selections include T-shirts, button-front shirts and hoodies for him; skirts, faux-leather shorts, jeggings and embellished loose-fitting tank tops for her; and a range of five-pocket denim and outerwear pieces for both.

The William Rast for Target collection is priced from $16.99 for a tank T-shirt to $199.99 for a fringed leather jacket (compared with $50 to $700 for the core William Rast line). It's slated to be sold in select Target stores and on the retailer's website through Jan. 22.

Even if you aren't familiar with the name William Rast, based in Los Angeles, you've probably heard of one of its co-founders: singer-actor Justin Timberlake. The pop star launched the denim-heavy line in 2005 with Trace Ayala, a childhood friend with whom he grew up in Millington, Tenn. ("William" is the first name of Timberlake's grandfather, and "Rast" is the last name of Ayala's.) The line drew much of its nostalgic Americana aesthetic from the shared childhood experience.

Over the last five years, William Rast proper, which sells through high-end boutiques and department stores, has slowly grown, both in offerings and in footprint, opening a handful of standalone stores. The founders also recruited the high-power fashion design duo of Johan and Marcella Lindeberg.

Although it's evolved since, the line today still hews to those early influences, keying into assorted frontier, biker, military and wandering-free-spirit influences from season to season. It's a vibe that definitely translates to the new Target collection as well _ although it's been distilled even further to "biker/rebel" basics (for him) and "bohemian/tomboy" staples (for her).

Noteworthy pieces on the men's side include heavy military-inspired twill shirts perfect for layering and deliberately pre-wrinkled plaid shirts with Western-style snap buttons (each $34.99). Standouts among the women's wardrobe choices are stretchy black embellished skirts that manage to be sexy but not trashy ($34.99) and woven silk blouses ($34.99).

The buttery leather outerwear pieces for both are surprisingly supple, and the women's black leather jacket with epaulets at the shoulder and fringe along the front of the yoke looks and feels worth a lot more than its $199.99 price tag indicates.

The range of five-pocket denim offerings is simple and straightforward, with straight-leg, skinny and boot-cut styles and with patching, abrading and oil-staining treatments. If you happen to be familiar with the William Rast brand's deep roots in premium denim, the assortment offered here might feel less than compelling _ until you take the $49.99 price into account.

Friday, December 24, 2010

Want Kate's engagement ring? Just three bucks in China

Chinese vendors looking to cash in on the frenzy over the April wedding of Britain's Prince William and Kate Middleton are selling copies of her engagement ring for as little as three dollars.

Knock-offs of the 45,000-dollar sapphire-and-diamond ring that the prince gave to Middleton - and once worn by his mother, Princess Diana - are on offer at various shops on Taobao.com, China's largest online mall.

Most are selling for less than 100 yuan (15 dollars), with the cheapest - allegedly made of zircon and unspecified alloys - available for just 19.9 yuan, or about three dollars, according to Taobao pages searched by AFP.

The original item was given to Diana by William's father, Prince Charles, when they were engaged in February 1981. Charles and Diana divorced in 1996 and she was killed in a car crash in Paris the following year.

Chinese media said this week that factories in Yiwu, east China, the world's largest wholesale market for small products, were ramping up output of royal wedding souvenirs, from fake rings to cups to dolls.

The producers, wary of finding themselves in a copyright lawsuit, say they are making minor changes to their bogus engagement rings, reducing the number of "diamonds" surrounding the "sapphire", according to the reports.

"I believe other company owners are the same as me - none of us would like to run the risk" associated with making exact replicas, one report quoted Zhou Mingwang, a businessman in Yiwu, as saying.

Cheap imitation rings have also flown off shop shelves in Brazil, reports said.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Kylie and Kendall Jenner Talk Fame

What are those krazy Kardashians up to now?

Well, the youngest stars of Keeping Up With the Kardashians, Kylie and Kendall Jenner, just hit the big-time, landing a spread in Teen Vogue's February issue!

Besides doing magazine interviews, they've been superbusy booking modeling gigs and hitting the red carpet, but are Kylie and Kendall ready for their own show?

Not quite.

"It's something to think about," Kylie, 15, tells the mag. The girls have other priorities right now, however, like shopping and getting ready for college.

They are in love with fashion, natch: "Whenever our sisters are done with clothes, they give me and Kylie stuff," Kendall says. "Khloé has my shoe size, so I've gotten some amazing Louboutins from her. And Kim gave me a black snakeskin Balenciaga for my birthday."

Yep, just your average couture hand-me-downs, right?

Besides shopping, Kendall is addicted to Facebook. The teen confesses, "I go on and stalk people. I tried to quit it for six months, but then I just started signing on from friends' accounts."

But the girls have gotten plenty of advice from their big sisters about the dangers of the Internet, like "Don't Google yourself" and "Your friends and family know you better than the Internet does!"

In the future, Kendall wants to continue her modeling career and Kylie wants to get into acting, "but college comes first."

Way to keep your heads on straight (while you can), girls!

 

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Get savvy about the sales

Making massively expensive mistakes while suffering 'sales mania' is not an option this year. And when it comes to bagging bargains, planning is all, writes ROSEMARY Mac CABE

THERE IS an urban legend in the retail world, one that is brought out and told (and retold) twice a year – that of the savvy sales shopper. “You know,” friends and family chirp, “the kind of people who go into the sales on St Stephen’s Day at 9am and know exactly what they want!” They exist, we are told, these mythical, militarily organised beings, in the here and now; everyone knows one.
“A woman in work does that,” you’ll hear. “I swear, she gets the best bargains.” However, a concerted search for the savvy sales shopper yields few results. It would seem that we are all, in fact, more alike than previously suspected – most people quizzed admitted to wandering into the sales, late on a Thursday afternoon, and picking up the odd “bargain”.

Mary McEvoy, who works in the public service, says she regularly frequents stores during the sales . But there is no method to her madness. “I don’t know what I want until I see it,” she says. “It depends what the reduction is. I mightn’t necessarily need it . . . I probably would buy things I wouldn’t ordinarily look at, purely for the fact that it’s 70 per cent reduced or something like that.”

This is not the ideal way to approach the discounts that this time of year brings, unless you are one of the few people entirely unaffected by our current economic crisis (in which case, go, spend and be merry; your country needs you).

For the rest of us, sale time brings the perfect opportunity to purchase investment pieces that may otherwise be out of our price range, at a bargain price – and, according to the experts, all this requires is a little bit of preparation.

“First and foremost, be methodical,” says Darren Kennedy, TV presenter and stylist, of helpmystyle.ie. “Make a list – go through your wardrobe and identify any clear gaps, and things you actually need.”

The emphasis on need versus want is especially important when items are discounted; a leopard print blouse at 30 per cent off automatically becomes a “needed” item by virtue of its price, when in fact leopard print is – ugh – so over, and in any case didn’t you come in for a winter coat?

Stylist and journalist Blanaid Hennessy of blanaid.com would advise being as thorough as possible. “Go through your wardrobe and have a clearout,” she says. “Do it before Christmas maybe, before you get any gifts, and get rid of the stuff you don’t need any more. Just don’t go mad – keep the things you love, and be aware of the items you have that you might not love but that are ‘filler’ pieces.”

Identifying a gap in your personal market is the first step to making the most of the sales. This provides you with an affordable way of creating that much-sought-after capsule wardrobe, or finishing your home with that must-have piece of art or lustworthy 38-inch flatscreen.

Next? Be focused. “Go prepared. Have scoped out, prior to sale time, what you’re looking for so that your jaw is not hitting the floor at the things that you neither need nor want,” says stylist Angela Scanlon.

It may seem terribly tiresome to spend time identifying the items you want to buy prior to sale time – is there a more empty feeling than that of walking away from something you want? – but it will pay dividends when you can smugly do a smash ’n’ grab in the midst of a crowd of panicking, distracted shoppers. This is especially important when it comes to electronics. There are few things as overwhelming as a Harvey Norman store on the first day of the sale, and few gadgets will remain in the store if you haven’t got your blinkers on.

“Once you go in with intent, you won’t make those costly mistakes,” says Scanlon. “Even if you buy things cheaper than usual . . . they’re still expensive if you don’t use them.”

As far as logistics go, all three shopping experts agree on one thing: get there early. “If you go early, you can find the best stuff,” says Hennessy. “It will get messy – and I think the seventh circle of hell might just be a sweaty, packed shop during the January sales.”

On the other hand, Kennedy advises waiting for the bargains to get even better.

“Don’t be too eager,” he says. “Prices will continue to drop. If you’re prepared to keep an eye on an item, you can end up getting a really huge discount as stores cut prices coming into January.”

Rest assured, if there are 20 of your desired item with the right spec on December 26th, it’s unlikely they’ll all be sold come January 1st – but that one remaining pair of Prada shoes is not going to miraculously find its way into your wardrobe if you don’t take the plunge.

When it comes to fashion, says Scanlon, the time might just be right to invest in more expensive items with a view to keeping them for years. “Shoes and handbags are great things to buy,” she says. “They don’t change too radically from season to season, and they tend to fall by 30 to 50 per cent, especially in department stores. It’s the time to buy those kinds of things you’ll have for years, but mightn’t generally have that wedge to spend on them.”

If you’re planning on investing in something in the sale, do your grunt work beforehand. If it’s a dry-clean-only white coat, it will cost you a pretty penny to keep clean – similarly, if it’s a television with no HDMI port, you might have trouble using your UPC box with it.

It’s crucial to make sure that your buys are ticking all your boxes, especially if they’re in the €100-plus category.

The most important thing to remember, however, is that the sales – in their own particular way – are meant to be fun. The Christmas lights are still up, Christmas music is floating down Henry St, children are buoyed by thoughts of Santa Claus (who decided they were good, after all) and it’s the beginning of a new year that, let’s face it, can’t be much worse than the last.

Above all, says Hennessy, it’s the perfect time to go for something different. “Take advantage of the fact that there’s a whole lot of money off,” she says. “No one’s stuck with any one particular style – sales shopping is a great time to try a new look.”

That’s the crux of the matter; having said goodbye to the season to be merry, it’s now the season to be frivolous, if you can get away with it. When it comes to larger purchases, it’s worth following the experts’ advice: do your research, be focused and don’t be swayed by shiny baubles in your peripheral vision. But if we’re talking a €5 sequined jacket or talking light sabre, and it’s making your heart soar just thinking about it, it might just be worth taking a chance.

Monday, December 20, 2010

A big obsession with the natural body beautiful

While skeletal models continue to stalk catwalks around the world, this year in Perth something big happened in the modelling world.

And it was spearheaded by the Perth Fashion Festival, who for the first time dedicated a show to a group they termed "real women".

Though the "real women" term turned a lot of people off, with slim women pointing out they were real too, the show featuring plus-sized models really struck a chord in a climate obsessed with the often conflicting ideas of beauty, health, size and self-esteem.

Natalie Wakeling led the plus-size model charge at the Perth Fashion Festival. Photo: Getty Images
Shoppers packed the fashion central tent in the city to see women of all shapes, sizes and ages show off a killer attitude to go with their womanly figures at the Every Body Counts show.

Competition winners strode alongside more established plus-sized models - including the country's most famous, Natalie Wakeling - with Nova radio presenter Gemma Walsh among the standouts. It was the confidence and swagger with which they commanded the catwalk that had the audience enthralled.

The sentiment at the show was best summed up by Wakeling's modelling ethos.

"Join us in our mission to change opinions, change perceptions and create a new way of thinking. Curvy is sexy, curvy is confident, curvy is back and better than ever," Wakeling said.

But The Perth Fashion Festival was not the only organisation to join the bigger-is-just-as-legit modelling movement during the year.

Department store Myer again used plus-sized models in store shows to allow shoppers to see how garments would look on figures similar to their own.

Designers around the world caught up with the belief that stylish clothes should not be limited to small sizes, with even super chic New York department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue including bigger sizes in luxury labels like Chanel, Armani, Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta.

Taking body image issues to a new naked level, Marie Claire magazine published nude and untouched images of model Jennifer Hawkins in their February edition. Despite the fact that Hawkins possesses one of the most lusted-after super fit bodies in the country, the magazine and an eating disorders foundation suggested the pictures promoted awareness of positive body image.

This perplexed the many women around the country who took to the images with a magnifying glass to search for the apparent flaws the images apparently demonstrated - and came up with nada. A tiny crease at her waist was deemed by some to be a flaw, while others suggested that if she weren't to have a crease in the area (read: skin) while sitting down she would be unable to stand up.

Other mags fired back at Marie Claire, publishing naked images of woman who did not have the body of a supermodel, to show readers what those pesky "real women" really looked like underneath their clothing.

But debate has raged around the world about how big qualifies a model as plus-sized and how big is too big?

Health commentators pointed out that obese models portrayed unhealthy body images, just as the long criticised super-thin models did. Others demanded that those with bigger bodies be loud and proud.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

What to wear this Christmas

Church-bound

Heading to church of a Christmas morn? Then you'll need your fur tippet, a crinoline, muffler and a chaperone. Not really. Times have changed since the days of Dickens, apparently. Churches are a lot less full, for one thing.

Practicality rules in this instance: unless you're heading to one of those flat-pack new places of worship that play their carols on a Yamaha keyboard, you'll need a hefty coat to see you through a draughty service. Reiss's longer-length jacket is the perfect compromise: warm enough that you'll feel the benefits but not so big and lumpy as to take up half a pew.

Team this with the ladylike uniform of the season, a pencil skirt and modern blouse – Whistles' "Amy" style is nicely, collarlessly utilitarian without being too trendy and shouty, while Michael Kors's ribbed cashmere skirt is classic, demure, toasty – and accommodating enough for the ensuing prandial blow-out. But if you can't stretch to that on your budget, Oasis and Warehouse have their own excellent versions.

Catwalk stylings for this look included the revived kitten heel, but it's the Independent fashion desk's opinion that no one, but no one, should have to totter at Christmas, and the addition of a sensible pair of brogues keeps this look more streetwise and less workwear.

Family Fun

The sartorial prerequisites for a stay-at-home Christmas gathered round the telly equate roughly to those for a week off work with the flu. Minimal effort, zero aesthetic concerns, no trends whatsoever to adhere to – only comfort should be at the forefront of your mind and your wardrobe. And comfort is, to paraphrase the Kim Grove cartoon, velour and a stretchy waistband.

Marks & Spencer's cashmere tracksuit is surely in the running for Most Antisocial Garment of 2010 – in that, while it's pitched right at the socially acceptable, impossibly deluxe end of the loungewear spectrum, it's so cosy as to mean you may never venture out of the house again. Perfect, then, for wearing as you fall asleep in front of Doctor Who. There's always scope for a Christmas cardie, though, and this jolly red and white one by Marc Jacobs has the advantage of being from his spring range, so when the Santa vibe wears off, you'll still be oh-so-current. Team both with a slub jersey T-shirt and some thick socks or, if you insist on going outside, some flat and cuddly shearling booties.

Turkey for Two

Some people see Christmas as a bonding experience, a chance to spend some one-on-one time with their partner. If your significant other isn't the television, no doubt you'll want to dress up for him or her, but remember to bear in mind the main tenet of the festive season: relaxed and nonchalant chic. Because you'll be too busy worrying about getting the roast potatoes right to give a monkey's about concept dressing on the day itself.

For that reason, we propose a chic and trendy – but above all easy – uniform of jeans and a T-shirt. There are plenty of cutesy, dressed-down graphic T-shirts around – Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel and Urban Outfitters are a good source of nicely embellished daytime tops, while labels such as DKNY and COS are good for mid-price, plain basics with interesting shapes and detailing. All would sit perfectly above a pair of classic indigo jeans – Acne's narrow skinnies are a great solution. Shoes, meanwhile, are a good way to add some razzmatazz, though the Spirit of Christmas Lazy suggests keeping them flat. Balenciaga pumps or Repetto ballet slippers are just the ticket.

Keeping the Peace with the In-laws

Unless you're Bernard Manning, you probably don't have that much of a problem with your in-laws, so dressing to spend Christmas with them will hardly reach Amish proportions. But you may want to smarten up the casual aesthetic a touch and wear something you don't mind those other than close family seeing you in. It all depends how well you get on with them, really.

The trend for insouciant and laid-back tailoring combines perfectly the lo-fi elegance and ease that you need for this occasion. One of the many pairs of slim-cut but mannish chinos available at the likes of Gap, Topshop and American Vintage are perfect, teamed with a colourful T-shirt or vest. You're both dining table-smart and armchair-ready.

If, however, the home of your swain is one governed by a traditional matriarch and an inflexible code of honour, opt for a simple jersey shift dress – this one from Mango can be layered over T-shirts or long sleeves depending on the time of day, and would work with Clarks' casual desert boots or ballet slippers for a more girlish take. Of course, when spending Christmas with his parents, your outfit should take a back seat to your helpfulness in the kitchen and unlimited enthusiasm for washing-up anyway.

Friday, December 17, 2010

It's so her last season – France's style queen quits

Given the notoriously icy "editrix" of US Vogue Anna Wintour once dismissed Sienna Miller as "toothy", it seems unlikely that she was crying into her designer water yesterday following the news that her fierce rival at French Vogue is to stand down.

Carrine Roitfeld, who became editor of the magazine in 2001, surprised the fashion world yesterday with the announcement of her departure from one of the most prestigious jobs in the industry. She will continue at the magazine until the end of January, which marks the 10th anniversary of her tenure there, but after that, according to Jonathan Newhouse, the chairman of Vogue publishers Condé Nast, she "plans to step down in order to take her life and work in a new direction".

While in charge of French Vogue Roitfeld made it the standard bearer for edgy Parisian cool. Roitfeld, 56, is a huge figure in the fashion industry in her own right. During her decade at the magazine, she has been celebrated for both her editorial work and her own personal style, thanks to an increasing focus on what fashion editors wear themselves.

Inevitably, as Roitfeld's status has grown, comparing her to US counterpart Anna Wintour has been something of a sport. In an interview in 2007, Roitfeld said: "The ultimate Vogue to do would be the American Vogue, because it's huge."

In 2008 rumours swirled that Roitfeld was poised to replace Wintour, with New York Magazine referring to Roitfeld as "The Anti Anna".

The contrast in the pair's personalities is particularly noticeable: while Wintour sweeps into fashion shows wearing a stern expression behind her trademark large sunglasses, Roitfeld is frequently to be seen smiling and chatting with her equally skinny and stylish editorial team.

Then there are their respective wardrobes. While Wintour favours a polished ladylike look, Roitfeld goes for a more rock-and-roll approach to dressing. She favours an artfully dishevelled hairstyle and smoky black eyeliner, while Wintour's signature bob never has a hair out of place.

Roitfeld's entrée into the fashion industry came in her late teens, as a model, and working for French Elle, but it was in the 90s that she had a major impact as part of a dream team of image-makers – working with designer Tom Ford at Gucci, and the photographer Mario Testino, who shot the brand's influential ad campaigns.

A statement on British Vogue's website said that Roitfeld has now decided to concentrate on personal projects. In an interview with the New York Times she said: "I think it's time to do something different."

Condé Nast has said that her replacement will be announced "in the coming weeks", a subject already of furious speculation in the fashion world.

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Kardashian Christmas card tradition continues in dramatic fashion

The Kardashian Christmas card is out, and unlike your typical Hallmark special with a note enclosed detailing marriages, babies and surgeries of 2010, this one has drama -- not to mention Kourtney, Khloe and Kim Kardashian and mom Kris Jenner in glam gowns.

Did we mention lots of drama?

So much drama we're not sure it says "Christmas" as much as it says, "We're ready for New Year's Eve, even the little guy, and we have a better table than you do" -- but hey, spirit of the season and all.

There's even a noir version of photographer Nick Saglambeni's setup, from the behind-the-scenes shots.

"Hi dolls," Khloe Kardashian writes on her blog. "Christmas cards have always been a REALLY big deal in my family. For as long as I can remember, my mom has made it a point to go all out, whether it was a ninja turtles themed card, or bringing a Santa into the mix, each year she always managed to top the year before. I'd have to say though that our card this year might be my favorite. It turned out beautifully -- just SO glam! Plus, Mason is in it, which makes it even more special. Look at him standing there in his pinstripe suit, such a little gentleman!!! LOL. I love it!

How does your Christmas card effort measure up to the Kardashians'? Or, vice versa, does your tradition have an edge on on theirs?

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Zegna most ubiquitous, Armani most innovative

More and more luxury Italian brands are expanding eastward, thanks to the rising disposable incomes of Chinese as well as their penchant for designer brands. Here's the scorecard of the retail presence in China by the leading Italian high-end labels.

Amongst the high-end labels, Ermenegildo Zegna boasts the highest number of stores with 62 locations, while Cornealiani and Armani are tied for last place, with just 16 boutiques each. However, Giorgio Armani possesses the most innovative expansion strategy: it operates several branded cafes, bars, chocolate shops and even floral shops in China, and runs a dedicated Chinese e-commerce site.

Versace: (20 retail stores) After opening its first dedicated jewelry boutique in Beijing on December 10, Versace is gearing up to launch another store in China in the coming days. The new location in Village North, a shopping complex in Sanlitun, an affluent area filled with shops and eateries, will be Versace's 20th retail venue in the Asian giant. Additionally, Versace is planning to unveil another flagship in Shanghai's Plaza 66 shopping center as well as another location in Zhengzhou, a city in Henan Province, sometime in 2011.
http://www.versace.com/en

Salvatore Ferragamo: (50 retail stores) The Florence-based company, whose shoes have been worn by Marilyn Monroe, Greta Garbo and Jennifer Lopez, operates 50 stores in 32 mainland cities in China. Chief Executive Michele Norsa told Reuters that Greater China is the number one market for the company according to growth potential. The company intends to open seven to nine stores in lower-tier Chinese cities in 2011.
http://www.ferragamo.com/

 

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Isle of Man watchmaker's work attracts global interest

Isle of Man based watchmaker Roger W Smith has exhibited his work in a showcase of the world's most exceptional watches.

Smith makes 10 watches a year by hand and displayed his latest works at the prestigious SalonQP event at One Marylebone in London.

He told BBC Isle of Man: "It was a fantastic experience and people had travelled from all over the world."

Smith runs his business from a workshop in the north of the island.

The Bolton man fell in love with the art of watch making following a lecture by the world famous horologist Dr George Daniels CBE at the Manchester School of Horology.

Global clientele

He now runs Britain's only fully hand made watch business with wife Caroline and exports his works to a global clientele.

There is currently a two year waiting list for Smith's creations

The 40-year-old admits he did not enjoy his time at school and was wondering what his next step would be when his father suggested the horology course.

"The course taught you how to repair clocks and watches and I thought it sounded like a great idea. I was accepted and the rest took off from there."

"The first day was the best day of education I had ever received.
"For the first time in my life I enjoyed schooling and we were using tools and machinery to make clock components, it was an amazing experience.

"It is an unusual job but I have never been one for following the pack."

There are over 30 individual trades involved in making a complete watch and there are only a handful of people in the world that can do so.

'Huge learning curve'

"My first pocket watch took a year and a half to complete and my second took five years. It's a huge learning curve."

Smith moved to the Isle of Man in 1998 to learn from Dr Daniels while working on the now famous 'Millennium' Series of watches.

Smith was inspired to take up the art of watchmaking by Dr George Daniels

He worked with Daniels until completion of the Series 3 years later, and then set up his own workshop on the Island where he now makes his own series of spectacular hand made watches - the Series 2.

George and Roger have stayed in close contact, and earlier this year George, now 84, announced his designs for a new limited series of watches, which are to be made for him by Roger.

The highlight of the recent show was the unveiling of the prototype Daniels' Anniversary wristwatch by Daniels himself.

"I first met George when I was 19-years-old and he came to the college for a day to talk to the students. He is an incredible man.
"I didn't realise at that stage that it was possible for a man to make a watch entirely by hand from start to finish.

'Space traveller'

"I remember he came into the workshop and I asked what he had on the end of his watch chain. He pulled out the most incredible pocket watch. It was a very famous watch known as the 'space traveller'.

"He designed it back in the 1970s to celebrate man landing on the moon and he was so passionate about his work that I knew at that point that this is what I wanted to do with my life."

The SalonQP exhibition attracted collectors from all over the world

The SalonQP show is the only event of its kind in the UK and drew collectors, enthusiasts and media from across the globe to experience first hand the very best in contemporary watch making.

Smith's wife joined the business a year ago as the general business manager. Caroline who is from the island said: "We displayed four of our watches and the response was fantastic."

"The new 'Open Dial' Series 2 attracted a huge amount of attention and the feedback was great."

Each of Roger's Series 2 wristwatches has over 220 individual pieces and can take up to five months to make. The watches sell for between £72,000 and £120,000.

Although the case, hands and dials are all made from either Gold, Silver or Platinum, 90% of the cost is labour taken to make and hand finish every single component of the mechanism - the beating heart of the watch.

Roger Smith has made over 50 watches from hand so far in his career and currently has a two year waiting list.

 

Monday, December 13, 2010

Boring fashion gifts turned great

Some gifts can seem last-minute and impersonal even if they're actually quite lovely and usable.

You probably reach for those black cashmere gloves or light up the vanilla-scented candle far more often than you wear the funky necklace or beaded top that were under the Christmas tree last year.

But, still, it's hard to get jazzed up about gloves, right?


Ed Bucciarelli, CEO and president of upscale accessories-and-beauty retailer Henri Bendel, says you wouldn't feel that way if they were the "perfect" gloves.

Perfect doesn't mean a painstaking search, though. As long as you know a few key things about the people you're giving presents to, such as their initials (and if you don't, maybe your list is too long), then thoughtful gift-giving can be essentially effortless, Bucciarelli says.

Monograms, favorite colors, scents that trigger childhood memories or this year's hottest trends add the right level of detail to elevate a gift, say experts.

And don't forget the pretty package. The gift wrap, says Linda Lee, group vice president of Macy's by Appointment shopping service, is what makes the first impression.

Here's expert advice on turning a potentially boring gift into a great one:

Scarves and Gloves

Bendel's Bucciarelli thinks a leopard-print scarf is fail-safe. It's ageless and goes with almost any coat, yet it always updates your look, he says. "My 16-year-old daughter and my 80-year-old mother each want one."

Nina Garcia, Marie Claire fashion director and Target style consultant, says women can never have too many lace scarves: They can transform any outfit into something romantic.

She, however, is hoping Santa Claus has fur-trimmed gloves with her name on them. "Everyone has gloves but not everyone has fur-trimmed gloves," she says. "You might not think about buying these for yourself, but it's a little touch of luxury you can give to someone else."

(She also points out to Santa the matching trapper hat.)

Cashmere is Macy's Lee's top choice, again because they're a bit of an indulgence, yet available at many price points.

But Gifts.com adviser Dana Holmes says the gloves people really need this holiday season are the ones that are convertible to fingerless ones - or even just arm-warmers, those extra, hand-free sleeves that are the close cousin to the leg-warmers of the '80s. It's the way people can stay warm and play with the new gadget that was also under the tree.

Sweater

A sense of the wearer's personal style is a must for a sweater, says Holmes, but whether the recipient is tailored or trendy, frumpy is never an option.

A cardigan is usually a safer bet for women than crewneck or turtleneck because it is easier to adapt "as your own," she says. The current "it" version is a flowy, open-wrap style.

And, she warns, don't go for something too fitted, gimmicky or glitzy unless you're sure that what this person wears. Take a quick look through photo albums or Facebook photos and take note whether this person tends to wear certain colors or silhouettes.

Tie

Women don't always love other people buying their clothes because they often like doing it themselves and need items to fit into their existing wardrobes, says Holmes, but that's not typically the case for men. "Men never shop for themselves unless they're really into it, so they expect basic ties and shirts. Just don't let it be their only gift."

For a hipster, you might try introducing him to a bow tie, says trend and retail analyst Tom Julian. Any age man can wear one with the right attitude, he says, but it's the younger man who can really rock it.

In more traditional ties, a 3-inch width is the norm and a 2-inch tie is trendy.

"I think a tie is a great gift to give a man and this is the perfect season to do so," says Julian, author of "Nordstrom Guide to Men's Everyday Dressing." "Ties are narrower and ties are not just for suits and business. Ties will show that you know his style."

Candles

Candles are a go-to gift, especially for party hosts, but it's because they're so pervasive that they have a bad rap, observes Gifts.com's Holmes. A seasonal fragrance might encourage the recipient to use it right away, she suggests.

A candle that's been personalized for a particular occasion, color, scent or to match initials reassures that it wasn't just one from the stock in the giver's hall closet.

Bendel's Bucciarelli encourages candles with unusual scents that can become conversation topics, or those that match a person's specific love of a flower or food.

Fragrance

For the friend who loves a particular designer but is watching his or her budget, a designer fragrance can be a really special gift, says Rochelle Bloom, president of the Fragrance Foundation, an industry trade group.

"If you can't afford the whole outfit, this is a way to get their fashion vibe. Designers are really involved with fragrances, especially a Marc Jacobs or Donna Karan type," says Bloom.

Also, fragrance is the perfect way to enjoy the scent of a favorite flower note - elegant rose, delicate jasmine, calming lavender - in a form sure to last much longer.

Once again, though, the key is knowing a little something about the person you are buying for.

Lee says she's even turned umbrellas into a great gift. "You might think the umbrella is an ordinary gift, but if you know that the person is always leaving something behind, you buy them three umbrellas - one for the office, one for home and the third because we know you'll lose one of the other two," she says. "With the right sentiment it really does work well."

"Razzle dazzle" doesn't always make the best gift, agrees Holmes. "Some gifts are appreciated more after the fact, and they're the ones that will be used over and over and over again."

Sunday, December 12, 2010

The fashion establishment always come back to black

The big story for the forthcoming season may be the wearing of full-on colour – blocked, printed, tone-on-tone, whatever – but only a few dipped their toes into that particular water at last week's British Fashion Awards.

True, Bianca Jagger looked every bit the great beauty she always has been in poison green. Lara Stone, meanwhile, is one of the few lovely enough to carry off a perfectly simple little white cocktail dress. She says she's constantly mistaken for Matt Lucas, but it's safe to say she didn't look like him at all in Calvin Klein. British Style icon Alexa Chung was pretty as a picture in sugar pink and not-very-British-at-all Chanel. Her leather jacket was Burberry, though, so that's all right for any rampant Anglophiles out there. Then there was Katie Grand, resplendent in acqua vintage Giles Deacon and with new Prada shoes, on the arm of Deacon himself, suitably dapper in a ruby smoking jacket courtesy of Ungaro.

For the most part, though, these were the exceptions that proved the rule that the fashion establishment still believe that black is the colour to be seen in to the point where even a shade as muted as petrol blue seemed like a radical departure.

Still, there's black and black. While black cocktail dresses aplenty were on display, Christopher Kane's leather and lace designs stood out – a marginally psychotic Heidi springs to mind, and his sister Tammy Kane wears the look well. New British Fashion Council ambassador Samantha Cameron (a bit of a stretch, that one, by anyone's standards) wore a full-length and rather stiff black Osman design, Victoria Beckham's ankle-length split-to-the-thigh style was draped and narrow and the marvellous Naomi Campbell opted for a long dress by new Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton.

Designer of the Year Phoebe Philo's outfit sprang from the time-honoured tuxedo given to women by Yves Saint Laurent in an attempt to rid them of the frills and furbelows of traditional eveningwear. Here was a strapless all-in-one "le smoking" that was as coolly oversized as it was appropriate and elegant and, on Philo at least, not even remotely reminiscent of something that a Teletubby might wear.

Friday, December 10, 2010

Designer found dead in Soho House hotel room

The boyfriend of a fashion designer found dead in a bathtub at New York's Soho House hotel was being questioned by police yesterday.

Nicholas Brooks, the son of "You Light Up My Life" songwriter Joseph Brooks, has been in custody since the body of Sylvie Cachay, was discovered at about 3.30am on Thursday at Soho House. Investigators were seeking a search warrant to look for traces of DNA, skin under his fingernails, and any possible signs of struggle or trauma, said Chief NYPD spokesman Paul Browne.

Mr Brooks, 24, has not been charged with a crime. He was apparently speaking with an attorney, but police said they did not know the lawyer's name.

Ms Cachay, 33, wearing a black top and underwear, was found in the oval tub, face-up, after hotel staff noticed the ceiling below her room was leaking. Investigators said she had some red marks around her neck and a bite mark on her hand. A bottle of prescription pills was found in the room, but no illegal drugs were found.

Ms Cachay lived in an apartment in Manhattan's West Village, but had a membership to the exclusive offshoot of the original London private members' club. That meant she had access to the rooftop pool, where Sex and the City episodes were filmed, and was able to rent one of the 24 guest rooms at a discount. The hotel has hosted Hollywood stars such as Nicole Kidman and Naomi Watts.

The medical examiner's office said yesterday that toxicology tests were being performed on the body after an initial autopsy was unable to conclusively pinpoint the cause of death. Such tests typically take days.

Mr Browne said there had been a small bedroom fire sparked by a candle at her apartment earlier in the week, and that may have led her to stay at the Soho House.

Ms Cachay and Mr Brooks had been dating about six months, and investigators said some of her friends told them he was erratic. Ms Cachay grew up with dual citizenship, splitting her time between Peru and Virginia. She graduated from Marymount College with a degree in design.

She interned at Marc Jacobs and worked for Tommy Hilfiger and Victoria's Secret. She left the lingerie empire in 2006 to start her own collection, but had been working at fashion houses again after the economy tanked and she lost her backing. Her former publicist called her the "darling of the swimsuit world".

Mr Brooks' Academy Award-winning father is awaiting trial in an unrelated case. The 72-year-old was accused of raping 11 women he lured to his apartment with the promise of a starring role in a movie. He has pleaded not guilty to sexual assault charges and has been freed on bail.

He won the Oscar for best original song for the 1977 ballad "You Light Up My Life" for the soundtrack of the film of the same name. He also wrote and directed the movie about a comedian who has a one-night stand with a director.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

How did chemists become the greatest force in fragrance?

A perfume, any perfumer worth their jasmine absolute will convince you, begins with inspiration. For the Lush perfumer Simon Constantine, when he set about creating a collection of scents for the launch of new fragrance house Gorilla Perfume, that meant bottling Lust, The Smell of Freedom, Orange Blossom, an Italian dance called Tuca Tuca, and even the sweet, ingenuous whiff of Imogen Rose, his new baby.

Both Simon and his father, Mark, a co-founder of Lush, say they want to reinvigorate the perfume market. Hundreds of similar fragrances are launched each year, mainly by the five big perfume houses, and in a fragrance market worth £1bn in sales, last year 46 per cent of product was shifted in the Christmas holiday period, despite striking similarities between many of the products.

This is not simply a case of coming up with the most innovative, or outlandish, idea for a perfume. The smell of money and cheese have been bottled and sold. The Constantines have even made edible and drinkable perfumes to showcase their new scents. Yet the art and inspiration must be met by science, which binds all perfumers.

Scent science dictates what raw materials are available to them, and their cost. Perfumery might seem like the most flimsy of sciences, and you do not, indeed, need a chemistry degree to mix a decent scent, but bottling a smell is much more complicated than deciding you like the smell of this or that flower or herb, boiling it up and dabbing a spot on your wrist. The idea that any scent is a field-to-fragrance distillation of an English country garden, Moroccan spice bazaar or meadow of lily of the valley is a marketing construct.

"Natural" is perceived as a good thing, whereas "chemical" is bad. In fact, almost all perfumes end up being a blend of natural raw materials and synthetic raw materials. Even perfumers who like working with natural ingredients need synthetics.

The natural materials, mixtures of molecules, are sold to perfume houses by extraction firms. But they need help to become the smell the perfumer is after. Simon Constantine wanted an orange blossom to communicate his childhood holidays on the Mediterranean, but the classic orange blossom oil has a dense, tarry smell. Eventually, he found a high-quality orange blossom absolute and mixed it with neroli to get the honeyed, sunny experience he craved.

"Naturals are the beauty of perfumery," explains Lyn Harris of luxury fragrance house Miller Harris. "They link back to the heritage and are what inspire me the most. But it would be wrong to say that I prefer them over synthetics."

Synthetic ingredients exist for a variety of reasons. Naturals do not always smell the same when extracted as they do in nature, and need to be "rebuilt" synthetically. Strawberry, banana and pineapple flavours are always synthetic. Synthetics are often much cheaper than a 100 per cent natural ingredient (cost dictates much of a perfumer's work; a decade ago, a fine fragrance might have cost £200-£300 per kilo. Now, £100 is expensive (and £15 much more likely). Perhaps most importantly, synthetic raw materials, usually single molecules, enable perfumers to create entirely new smells for us to enjoy. "I would never want to do without chemicals or synthetics as these are what add the magic to a formula," Harris says.

The first time a synthetic material was used in a commercial scent was in 1881, when Paul Parquet used synthetic coumarin in his Fougère Royale fragrance for Houbigant. The name translates as royal fern – the joke being that ferns have no smell, so Parquet had created a smell out of nothing. Coumarin is present in many natural products which Parquet had access to, but making his own meant he could use it in huge doses, creating an altogether different effect to anything else on the market.

More than 100 years later, single-molecule smells, on their own, rarely resemble anything we recognise. No doubt Geza Schoen's Escentric Molecules, single-molecule scents, are a success precisely because they smell so peculiar.

The five big perfume houses (Givaudan, Firmenich, IFF, Symrise and Takasago) make fine fragrances and smells for soaps, cleaning products and anything else we use that is scented. Their perfume scientists work hard to create new molecules, the secrets of which are then fiercely guarded. The senior vice-president of fine fragrance creation at Symrise, Beatrice Mouleyre, explains that in the Givenchy Play range, Ambroxide, one of Symrise's specialities, gives the dry, woody note in the men's fragrance. Symroxane, a Symrise "captive", is in the women's fragrance. If you want to make a new scent and enjoy Givenchy Play's complex woody facets, you should turn to Symrise.

Although Constantine's laboratory in Poole is tiny compared with those at the big perfume houses, all perfumers use the same, fairly simple, apparatus – bottles, pipettes, beakers, scales. The complex bits are the ingredients. These are mixed, drop by drop, until the right blend is reached. The oils are mixed with alcohol to reach the desired concentration. Each new fragrance is left to sit for at least a week, because the smell will change over time, before settling, just as perfume does on your skin.

There are so many potential smells available to perfumers, it is a wonder they ever achieve what they are aiming for. But, as celebrated fragrance scientist Luca Turin explains in The Science of Scent, perfumes can be thought of as "chemical poems" made up of hundreds of words. Each word can be followed by a number of potential words, but not by anything at all. You can't read a poem backwards or vertically and come away with the same overall effect the poet intended, but you can make minor adjustments with punctuation and small word changes and create your own unique variation on the original.

Rose was once considered something of a "granny" smell but has experienced a boom in popularity in recent years. Constantine wanted to create an entirely new rose sensation when creating a perfume in honour of his new daughter. What he has managed is a genius stroke of bottling a fresh, clear rose scent along with the Johnson's talcum powder sweetness of a baby. Of course, he didn't get there by mixing rose oil with talc and Johnson's Baby Oil. He added basil notes to the Damascus rose oil to give the flower a greener, fresher smell. The talcum powder hug was found by mixing tonka bean with rose absolute.

When Constantine launched the scent at a specially created "fragrance gallery" in Tokyo earlier this month, its effect was palpable. Fragrances are typically associated with sophistication, and certainly adulthood, yet here was a smell that transported every wearer to the playfulness of baby bath time.

The fun, and the challenge, of scent for scientists and perfumers is its malleability and endless potential. When Lyn Harris created one of her original and best-selling scents, Fleur Oriental, she added fresh orange flower, heliotrope, spicy carnation and rose to the "great and grand orientals". Florals and orientals are considered two different categories of scent, but Harris successfully blended the two into one of her signature creations.

This is how small perfumers, who do not have access to captive molecules, make their mark on perfumery and are able to shake up the industry. Yet while perfumers can influence what we smell, they cannot affect how we smell their work. The chemistry of scent is up for grabs – anyone can have a dabble – but the biology of smell is a much greater mystery.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

2010 Handbago Awards announce winners

For all handbag enthusiasts, Handbago is a website that showcases all things handbags. Each year they hold what they call "The Handbago Awards," which highlights the best of the best designs and designers in the handbag community and allows the public to take a vote. From updated designs from Jimmy Choo to up and coming designers like Lena Erziak, these handbags and handbag designers have been voted as the best of 2010.

Adriana Castro Named Best Handbag Designer of the Year
2010 Handbago Awards Announced. Winners Include Jimmy Choo, Hermès Birkin, Linea Pelle, Lena Erziak, Treesje, Cashhimi and Nyla Noor.

NEWS FACTS
- Adriana Castro Wins Best Designer Award.
- Hermès Birkin defeats Channel 2.55 by a single vote to win the Best Timeless Classic Award.
- The Handbago Awards highlight excellence in designer handbags.
- Over 50,000 community votes received to select winners in the eight award categories.

Los Angeles, December 8, 2010. Consumers looking for the hottest handbags this holiday season are in luck. Handbago.com announced the winners for the 2010 Handbago Awards with the Best Handbag Designer Award going to Adriana Castro.

"Every year there is a handbag designer that stands out above the rest. This year it is Adriana Castro", states Kristina Moreno, handbag expert and President of Handbago.com. "Castro brings luxury, bold yet classic designs and high end quality to the table. Her designs excite the senses of consumers and celebrities alike."

"I am honored to receive Handbago’s Best Designer of the Year Award", states Adriana Castro.  "I am so grateful for the love and support from our fans. You have always been such a loyal following and part of this award that we have won together."

Other 2010 Handbago Award winners included the Jimmy Choo Tatum being named Best "It" Bag, Best Clutch was awarded to the Cashhimi Yellow Python Clutch, Treesje Crimson Crossbody won as the Best Crossbody, Best Tote went to the Linea Pelle Perry Woven Tote, the Nyla Noor Port Vell Satchel won as Best Satchel, Lena Erziak won as Best Emerging Designer. In the Best Timeless Classic Award, the Hermès Birkin beat out the Chanel 2.55 Quilted Bag by a single vote to win.

 

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Carolyn Enting has a heady time with Lush co-founder Rowena Bird

Carolyn Enting has a heady time with Lush co-founder Rowena Bird.

I know what not to get my brother for Christmas, after arriving at his Auckland flat armed with a bag full of fragrant Lush cosmetic and body products.

The bag, containing bath ballistics, body scrubs, lip balms and a fizzy hangover treatment, was relegated to the boot of the car for the weekend because he refused to allow them into the house because of the potent smell.

Having just returned from interviewing Rowena Bird, the British co-founder of Lush, I defended them, not because I had been given a free bagful of the stuff, but because I had been enlightened as to why the scent of the products is so, err, strong.

The first reason is that most Lush products are not wrapped in unnecessary packaging.

Lush, which started in 1995, puts the money it saves on packaging into sourcing and buying the best essential oils for its product formulations.

Unlike many other companies, Lush does not dilute or stretch these oils which Bird assures me are "worth more than gold if weighed ounce by ounce".

She says Lush wants its customers to reap the full benefits of the aromatic properties of the oils.

The company works directly with flower growers, going back to the source whenever possible. This way, the customer gets the best value for money.

Earlier, I had tackled Bird on the smell issue. I had heard Lush had had to move from several shopping malls after complaints regarding its sweet smells.

"We do smell, but I see it as making the world smell better. You walk down the street and smell body odour, bins, car fumes and McDonald's, or you can have these beautiful essential oils."

I nod, smile. Can't argue with that. I'm feeling pretty chilled by now, surrounded by the heady scents. The staff are all smiling too.

"It's why all our staff are so happy all the time because they are breathing in essential oils," Bird says.

It's Lush intoxication by smell. Not enough to cause a hangover, although Lush has a new cure for one of those, a ballistic for the shower called the Too Drunk To ... Emotibomb.

You place the disc on the shower floor and as the hot water hits it, it releases the essential oils. The aroma of peppermint and fennel help you focus and soothe your brain, with sweet wild orange to refresh.

There is also an Emotibomb to "wake you up" and one to "make you feel sexy".

Its most recent initiative is the waste not, want not Knot-Wrap inspired by the Japanese art of furoshiki (cloth for bath).

Lush has introduced vintage scarves into its stores to encourage customers to use them instead of gift wrap. They can be reused as gift wrap, worn as a scarf, used as a decoration or to wrap groceries.

The Knot-Wrap comes with instructions on how to wrap it, Japanese-style. At $6.50 they're a lot more purse friendly than a Hermes scarf.

Lush encourages customers to return the recycled black plastic containers in which its cosmetics are packaged (bring back five and receive a free face mask). It also provides a list of things you can do with the containers, which make great flower pots.

The products are not tested on animals – Bird says they'd love to not have to say that, but unfortunately many cosmetic companies still do testing. Lush also prefers to use sea freight to ship goods internationally, and supports Fair Trade, Community Trade and organic initiatives.

The products for the New Zealand and Australian market are all made by hand in Sydney and you'll never find a product on the shelf that's more than four months old.

"We use lots of fresh, active ingredients and minimise preservatives, because they are not good to the skin," Bird says.

"The whole thing about preservatives is that they kill everything, including the micro flora on the skin. You need the flora on the skin to keep it healthy."

Bird dreams up some of the products, although she is not a key inventor. She is one of seven co-founders of Lush who set up the company 16 years ago and was taught how to make colour cosmetics by cosmetic scientist Stan Krysztal, who invented Nivea and created makeup for Mary Quant.

He had a great pupil in Bird, who as a girl used to make her own perfumes out of bluebells from the woods.

Bird's personal Lush favourites include Lovely Jubblies lifting cream with tigerlily extract for the breast, neck and upper arm; Ayesha firming face mask that has a "Cinderella effect"; Ultrabland cream cleanser that removes makeup in one go but leaves the skin supple and soft; and a solid shampoo bar for travelling, as it contains up to 80 washes.

I now have many of these in my bathroom, stored in an airtight container.

Monday, December 6, 2010

Victorinox Swiss Army Infantry Vintage Day/Date

Swiss Army” is almost a cliché. The name has such muddy ubiquity that it's almost like Kleenex or Band-Aid. Victorinox, however, is one of the companies that can claim true Swiss Army pedigree, dating back to its days as a pocketknife supplier to the Alpine nation’s armed forces. A few years ago, Victorinox tried to differentiate itself through rebranding, placing its company name front and center. About the same time, the company started putting out fine mechanical timepieces to augment their collection of sturdy quartz numbers. No longer was Victorinox going to produce only the kind of watches you bought at the same store as your hiking boots.

Victorinox Swiss Army’s higher-end watches, while still decidedly utilitarian, were more refined in their design and used tried-and-true Swiss Made mechanical movements, the same as were being used by other more famous watch marques. While these watches weren’t going for $100 at your camping-supply store, the prices have positioned Victorinox Swiss Army squarely between entry-level luxury or high-end utility. Case in point: the Infantry Vintage Mechanical Day/Date. Though its name is a mouthful, the watch is a durable, high-quality timepiece, featuring a fun complication, that would be as at home on the trail as on the town. And for well under a grand, you get a watch that holds its own against those costing a lot more.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

The French label Cacharel is synonymous with quirky florals

Prints, colour and a certain dynamism; all of them belong to Cacharel." So says designer Cédric Charlier, who has been the head of womenswear at the French label since March 2009. It's an indisputably well-known brand, thanks to the distinctive image the founder Jean Bousquet created for it in the Sixties and Seventies, and now Charlier is putting it back on the fashion insider's wish list.

Bousquet started the label in 1962 in Nîmes, taking its name from a bird native to the Camargue in Southern France, and immediately introduced signature pieces with which Cacharel is still associated. In the first year the label created a collection of women's blouses in cheerful colours, without bust darts, while the Liberty print blouse followed in 1965. In 1967 the photographer Sarah Moon began photographing the Cacharel ad campaigns, and her soft-focus, gently surreal images were integral to developing its identity. In 1978 the label launched its first fragrance, Anais Anais, a sweet, floral scent which many women remember as one of their first-ever perfumes, and in the Eighties and Nineties the company was well known for fragrance.

In 2000, after 20 years in which they were mainly absent from the catwalk, Cacharel hired the husband-and-wife design duo Clements Ribeiro and held a show in Paris. After seven years they left and were replaced by another couple, Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto of Eley Kishimoto, who brought a very naïve, cartoonish feel to the house. However, in 2008 that partnership came to an end, with Kishimoto citing a "conflict over creative vision".

In 2009 Cacharel signed a significant deal with AEFFE, an Italian group specialising in the production and distribution of luxury goods, with Cacharel responsible for the creative direction. Before that, Basquet hired Cédric Charlier and since his arrival there's been a buzz around the new-look Cacharel. It can't hurt that the designer, who moved from his native Brussels to study at La Cambre in Paris, was previously an assistant to Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, where he "learned to respect a woman's body", and had also worked with Michael Kors when Kors was at Céline. As with any designer joining a house with a certain heritage and image – particularly when there has been a quick succession of designers preceding them – Charlier acknowledges that "what is most important for me is the contemporary vision of the brand". He says: "I built new codes: a nonchalant allure, and a work on the cuts that we see each season."

The challenge specific to Cacharel is in retaining its sense of sweetness, and whimsy but removing any saccharine traces. Charlier has said before that: "It was always a romantic label and girly in a way ... I wanted it to go boyish girl. She plays with her hair and her shoes and she can wear the coat of her father if she wants to." Accordingly, his current autumn/winter collection features masculine black patent lace-up shoes teamed with black leather socks, and includes androgynous shapes such as oversized cocoon coats and jackets. The florals for which the label is famed are there, but in a less-naïve guise of red flowers on a dark black background.

With fashion phases of the last few years including the trend for "statement" clothing followed by the current move towards "real clothes" – namely pared-back modern classics – sweetness has been rather overlooked. However, there is always a demand for clothes with an unashamedly playful, youthful freshness to them, which favour exuberance over more dramatic or conceptual messages.

For the Resort 2011 collection, from which this look was taken, the freshness comes from Charlier's use of print. Here, Charlier says that he took, as the starting point for the collection, "photographs with flowers in the foreground and a dreamed skyline with an endless infinity". The resulting prints come in shades of cobalt, yellow and candy pink with a painterly, Monet-like quality to them. The patterns are eye-catching, but not domineering, so that they won't overwhelm the wearer. Among the key pieces in the collection are the printed trousers, which are something of a trend at the moment, appearing in Alberta Ferretti and Miu Miu's Resort collections, and a popular look among the fashion crowd at the last round of collections. The more restrained dresser might want to pair them with plain tops or dress them down, but for the Cacharel presentation several looks were styled by pairing a printed blouse with cropped trousers or a skirt. Shapes are simple and include pyjama-like cropped trousers and shirts, straight boxy jackets without lapels and tunic dresses, and these unfussy outlines are continued for spring/summer.

An emphasis on a sweet youthful spirit isn't the only way in which Cacharel is carving a space for itself in a competitive market, however. It's also attractively priced. At around £550 for a coat and from around £350 for a plain dress, it's not exactly a snip, but it does sit comfortably in a similar price bracket to Marc by Marc Jacobs or fellow-revived French label Carven, which appeals to consumers who want something more special than the high street but can't afford the increasing prices of the big designer brands. That consumer is likely to be a dreamer who happily follows her most romantic instincts when it comes to fashion.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Lolly Ella Jewelry in West Bloomfield turns 5

In November 2005, four sisters —Erica, Michelle, Danielle and Pamela — along with their parents Janet and Dan Strauch, opened a neighborhood jewelry and accessory boutique in West Bloomfield Township. The family-owned business was uniquely named after their grandmothers: Lolly (Margaret) Strauch, Eleanore Mansoor and great grandmother Stella Hramiec.

In five years, the family has built a successful business based on a philosophy of providing fashion-forward merchandise that rivals designer pieces, affordable prices, friendly service, a welcoming environment and a commitment to giving back to the community.

The Strauch family created a powerhouse team through their educational backgrounds and their career experience in merchandising, marketing, and management.

By sharing this expertise, they are leading the trend and are experts in the industry. The store has a long list of clients that rely on the Lolly Ella team to style their accessories from everyday to special occasions. Clients are often seen bringing their outfit to the store for this advice. Brides and bridal party accessories are a specialty of the boutique.

The family has been dedicated in their support of the surrounding communities. Special merchandise has been created and/or shopping proceeds have been donated to support nonprofit organizations including: Ministrelli Women’s Heart Center at Beaumont Hospital, Light House of Oakland County, Shades of Pink Foundation, and Abigayle Ministries.

Their generosity continues by supporting the Homeless Angels Foundation with proceeds from an exclusive LifeLinks Unisex Angel bracelet for $15 throughout the month of December.

 

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Who knew the The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show 2010 would be so aesthetically complex?

Who knew the The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show 2010 would be so aesthetically complex? Sure, it was 60 minutes of cameras zooming in on the chests and crotches of slinky models dressed in clothes that would get their designers booted off Project Runway. But the show also tried to do a number of things at once: Give you a sense of what it’s like backstage; give the impression that the women in these clothes are just one big happy, happy family; and give you fantasies of both of those experiences that might move you to buy some version of these clothes for your girlfriend, wife, or, I don’t know, your best pal or your grandmother, probably. Victoria’s Secret isn’t picky.

The show had the models describing each other: Lily is “smokin’ hot!” Rosie is, by common agreement, “this sexy bomb!” Chanel is “the baby Angel.” And all concur: “We’re like a complete family.” If so, where was The Stern Dad?
Katy Perry fit right in, in a periwinkle bathing-suit-with-puffy-marshmallow-hip-wings and high-heeled sneakers. The only item out of place in this fantasy-girl’s image was the big wedding-ring from Russell Brand — the rest of the girls on this show were supposed to be suggestively available, not taken, like the recently married Perry.

The show was sweet in its attempt to swaddle this ogle-fest in educational information. A segment narrated by model, er, Angel  Candice Swanepoel was shot in black and white, perhaps to remind us of great documentary footage by masters from Robert Flaherty to Frederick Wiseman. Candice described her inner process: “As my transformation begins, I start to prepare myself mentally; you can almost hear people’s hearts start beating faster.”
The whole hour was gleefully lascivious amusement, a long commercial for people who don’t get the company’s catalog in the mail. Or who keep the catalogs in hermetically sealed bags, catalogued by date.
Next week in the same time period, we get The Good Wife back. Come to think of it, The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is the sort of TV Chris Noth’s Peter Florrick would probably be glued to.
Did you watch?

 

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

18th-Century Clockmaker Inspires Today's Work

This year, the 10th anniversary of the presentation of the first “Chronomètre à Résonance,” a unique mechanism by the Geneva-based watchmaker F. P. Journe, coincided with an exceptional horology sale at Sotheby’s in Paris.

In collaboration with the French auction house and the horology specialists Chayette & Cheval, Sotheby’s held a sale this month of rarely seen historical pieces that included an armillary planetarium, a double-dial pedestal regulator and a calendrical table regulator, all signed by the 18th-century French clockmaker Antide Janvier.

Among his achievements, Mr. Janvier is credited with the fabrication of the first double-pendulum, or resonance, clock, based upon the natural phenomenon of resonance recognized a century earlier by Galileo in his investigations of musical strings and pendulums.

“Before becoming an horologer, Janvier was a mathematician consumed by astronomy,” said the watchmaker François-Paul Journe, at a conference held during the preview of the sale at Sotheby’s.

It was Mr. Janvier’s mechanism that Mr. Journe adapted for the “Chronomètre à Résonance” wristwatches that he began making 10 years ago, relying on the natural phenomenon of resonance for accuracy.

The Janvier pieces in the auction came from the collection of Marcel Mennesson, the French inventor of the VeloSolex motorized bicycle, himself a mechanical genius and horology connoisseur.

“The Janvier pieces are a very rare ensemble,” said Hervé Chayette, Parisian auctioneer and horology expert. “Janvier did not produce much in his lifetime, and to have three pieces at once is exceptional.”

The Janvier pedestal double-dial regulator, a museum-quality piece last seen in 1949 in an exhibition called “Masterpieces of Horology” at the Musée du Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers in Paris, was sold for €432,750, or about $595,000, a belated recognition for a brilliant clockmaker who died in poverty and obscurity.

Mr. Janvier, who died in 1835 with no heirs, was a contemporary of Abraham-Louis Bréguet, founder of the eponymous watch brand. While Mr. Bréguet went on to build a successful business in own lifetime, one that was later successfully carried on by his descendants, Mr. Janvier is remembered today only by the most erudite of timepiece connoisseurs.

“The only 18th-century clockmaker whose name the public remembers today is Bréguet,” Mr. Chayette said. “His son took the reins after him, and his descendants went on to build a dynasty, until in the 19th century, the family sold the business that today is owned by the Swatch Group.”

The preview of the sale was the occasion for Mr. Journe to commemorate the 10th anniversary of his own resonance-based collection.

“Resonance occurs when two suspended pendulums of the same frequency swing in the same plane,” he said. “Janvier used his knowledge of this natural phenomenon to build clocks with two identical pendulums closely regulated to the same rate to take advantage of this effect so that each pendulum would correct any errors in the other.”

At the same conference, Jean-Claude Sabrier, a watchmaking expert and former consultant to the Swatch Group, explained that “this is because two pendulums working side by side would, over time, become synchronized, even if placed in different rooms.”

The son of a farm worker who later turned to horology, Mr. Janvier was initiated from a young age to horology while studying theories of astronomy and mechanics.

“At 12, Janvier already had solid notions both of astronomy and horology,” Mr. Sabrier said. “At 17, he presented a planetary sphere to the Academy of Sciences of Besançon, to high commendations.”

At 33, Mr. Janvier left his native Jura region to settle in Paris, having already sold a pair of mechanized spheres to the King Louis XVI, and armed with a book filled with court orders for precision clocks. Soon thereafter, he was appointed “horloger-mécanicien de Monsieur, frère du Roi,” official clockmaker to the king’s brother.

It was during the tumultuous years of around the French Revolution, from 1788 to 1801, that Mr. Janvier created his masterpieces, including two four-faced astronomical clocks surmounted by mechanical spheres. The first was purchased by Louis XVI in 1789, three months before the storming of the Bastille. It was destroyed in the fire at the Tuileries Palace in 1871. The other remains today in a private collection. It was also during the same period that Mr. Janvier is believed to have begun making his first resonance clocks.

After the revolution, despite securing a pension and public housing, and while Mr. Bréguet built a successful business among the new French elite, Mr. Janvier’s financial situation deteriorated for reasons that are not well understood.

By 1812, the date he completed the resonance clock offered in the Sotheby’s sale, Mr. Janvier was in bankruptcy and his possessions auctioned to pay debts.

Six years later, while Bréguet’s business flourished on the Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, Janvier returned to his native Jura, where he died in poverty in 1835.

“Janvier was ahead of his time,” Mr. Journe said. “Part of his genius was his reductionism. He would remove pieces, synthesize movements and simplify his mechanics while increasing precision. He could do with four wheels what was done with five before him.”

In 1980, while employed in a restoration atelier tending to antique clocks, Mr. Journe came upon one of Bréguet’s resonance regulators. “Prior to that, I had not seen a regulator,” he said. “I was seduced by the mechanism even before I became a watchmaker.”

When he received his first order for a handmade pocket watch, Mr. Journe proposed a resonance-based mechanism to his client.

“It was the second watch I had ever made,” he recalled. “It was not a success but I told myself I would start again.”

Fifteen years passed before he would attempt the same feat again, realizing with experience that the mechanism, more than a gadget, helped establish equilibrium inside the watch, protecting it from interference by external forces.

“Most wristwatches accelerate or slow down because of outside vibrations,” Mr. Journe said. “A resonance system envelops the watch’s mechanism with such force that it stops any disturbance and enhances the movement’s precision. It is nature establishing an equilibrium.”

At an auction in 2001, Mr. Journe paid nearly $1 million for a resonance precision regulator made by Janvier, a moment he called “extremely emotional.”

“It was the first known application of the phenomenon of resonance. It symbolized the link between my own ‘Chronomètre à résonance’ and the most interesting 18th-century research,” Mr. Journe wrote on his company’s Web site.

Another such regulator is at the Paul Dupuis Museum in Toulouse and a desk-top version is at the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva.

While celebrating a decade of making resonance wristwatches, Mr. Journe also announced that the Journe Résonance collection would now be ended.

“We have decided to close the chapter on what was already a very exclusive limited edition and a fascinating adventure,” he said.