Sunday, January 30, 2011

Menswear with a touch of sparkle

Before we sprint off into 2011's winter trends, let's take a moment to reflect on the season just past. Yep, bleurgh. With temperatures plummeting, the end of 2010 was a portfolio of pretty miserable months. And morale was hardly helped by all the sober, classic and exasperatingly subtle clothes that were on offer.

Thankfully, the soothsayers of Paris and Milan seemed to have learnt their lesson, injecting a bit of vitality and visibility back into the fashionable male's wardrobe. Though there's still a feeling that simple is supreme, there was also something of an invigoratingly gaudy spirit. Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin described the play between the two extremes with words such as "tension" and "energy" – ah, that's more like it – and he in particular seemed to have hit the jackpot this season, juxtaposing the tried-and-tested with the unexpected in a series of silhouettes that mixed tailoring with sportswear shapes, playing inventively with proportions. "We tried to have something clashing in every outfit," he said, recuperating after the show, before concluding: "It's really about options." His words ring true throughout the season, which is full of brash, mix-and-matchy possibilities – good news for all those sick of the back-to-basics approach.

That 70s Show

The decade of the moment is the 1970s: Dries Van Noten's cool, buttoned-up collection was inspired by David Bowie, and superbly cut jackets, overcoats and trenches made for a long, wide-shouldered silhouette. And Dolce & Gabbana raved about Bryan Ferry, whose penchant for elegant tailoring from the mid-70s onwards was the starting point for a collection of nipped-in dinner jackets and low-slung, carrot-shaped trousers, while Frida Giannini at Gucci quietly referenced glam rock with flares, turtlenecks and fur.

Flashing Lights

Yes, sequins and sparkles are inherently un-butch, but several autumn 2011 shows made a case for executing these dazzling accents with a bit of restraint. Chief among these was Prada, as ever a reference point for the season, where gawky, minimal tailoring (think round-shouldered, three-button blazers and slim, neatly tapered trousers) was worn with diamond-print suede jackets and this season's statement piece – the lurex knit – which came as a plain scooped V or loose-fitting, contrast- collared polo shirt in various shades of brilliant green, gold and bronze. At Comme des Garçons – where Rei Kawakubo took a characteristically eclectic romp through Chinoiserie, androgyny and Gustav Klimt, with a bit of punky tartan thrown in for good measure – lurex glinted again in mixed fibres for jackets. Also going at it with the sequins were Jean Paul Gaultier at his James Bond-themed show (think gold-spattered wetsuits, gold leather jackets and gold sequined jeans) and Dolce & Gabbana, who fielded some showstopping contrast-lapel tuxedo jackets for razzing up the dreary winter evenings.

Agent Orange

One of the dominant themes this season was a clash between sobriety and glamour, and this meant a good dose of eye-burning colour, particularly in that most hazardous shade, orange. At Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey eschewed the ornate tassels, studs and military regalia-inspired embellishments he's often partial to, going for a simple silhouette that practically vibrated with brightness. There were orange coats in compact wool and vinyl, orange laminated knits and orange jackets in fine down nylon, the colour palette for outwerwear rounded out by vivid yellows, blues, greens and reds. These pieces, all oversized, were worn over plain, slim trousers in jarringly neutral shades of blue-grey and black, with thick-treaded black Chelsea boots. Other advocates of orange included Tomas Meier at Bottega Veneta, where flashes of colour undercut a collection heavy with black leather and textured wool, and Lady Gaga's left-hand man Nicola Formichetti in his debut for Thierry Mugler, in which he drew a trademark orange from Mugler's archive. ("I'm bored of black," he sighed from the showroom in Paris.) But it seemed that everyone was toying with loud shades, from Louis Vuitton (where a new colour, "Motel Red", was invented for the David Lynch-inspired collection), to Yohji Yamamoto, who went for "flashes" of orange and red ("I have often done this all through my men's shows," he remarked afterwards, as if slightly affronted by the suggestion he could be on-trend).

Double-breasted

The double-breasted blazer is nothing new. Nor is its promotion to trend status – the Eighties style has been back for several years now. But it really seemed like everybody was exploring the shape with renewed gusto, not only fielding interesting takes on double-breasted tailoring but taking the idea into outerwear. Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent reinvented the typical, broad-shoulder silhouette of the double breasted jacket by slimming it down and re-positioning the buttons on the torso. Louis Vuitton, meanwhile, showed double-breasted blazers, crombies and a luxurious shawl-collar peacoat, and Lanvin modified the template with magnetic fastenings and long, slim cuts. Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen used the double-breasted blazer to hook into another mini-trend, adding a shearling collar (also in evidence at Margiela) into a pinstripe jacket, and riffing on the tightly buttoned jerkins of 19th-century military uniforms.

Bold and Baroque

Alongside an outburst of colour at the fall 2011 shows, the cherry-on-the-cake of many a show was a statement print. In some collections this was a brief flash – Lanvin, for example, showed one all-over print look, inspired by kaleidoscopic patterns. In others, prints were used with more abandon: both Comme des Garçons and D&G scavenged from pop culture, the former lining its jackets (worn inside out) with scraps of vintage T-shirts bearing slogans such as "Enjoy Coca-Cola" and "D.A.R.E.", and the latter splashing its toytown-esque outfits with Mickey Mouse and more Coke logos. The most striking use of a repeated motif, however, came at Givenchy, where Riccardo Tisci played with images of growling rottweilers in a way that recalled the excesses of Nineties Versace. His urban baroque played out across bomber jackets, sweaters and shorts, worn over tights and laced boots.

Amish Paradise?

Amid all the warmth and colour came one startling trend: the Amish. No, really. Angela Missoni clad models in wide-brimmed hats and uncharacteristic subtle colours. Raf Simons quoted Amish quilting in his shirts, tees and outerwear, and Paul Helbers also cited Amish monochrome as inspiration for his Louis Vuitton collection. But the most overt Amish fantasy came in Kris Van Assche's Dior Homme collection, which he dubbed "essential luxury". The pared-down, yet sumptuous clothes bore remarkably few signs of buttons, zips or extraneous details. And then there were the hats again, with rounded crowns and brims extending a good four inches either side of the face. Let's just hope we're not expected to turn off our electric heaters, because that could make for a tough winter indeed.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

The Fashion Ambush with a Colorado Twist

Castle Rock, Loveland & Silverthorne, Colorado-- Outlets of Colorado, ever-vigilant in its quest to help Coloradans find fashion, stretch dollars, recreate at premier destinations and attractions, and most of all-- have some fun, greets 2011 with its newest promotion: the Fashion Ambush with a Colorado Twist.

Hostess Peggy Ziglin, Outlets of Colorado Regional Fashion Advisor, and her sidekick Craig Coffey, morning reporter on Fox 21 television, will be "ambushing" unsuspecting individuals each month in 2011, at a variety of tourism attractions in Colorado Springs and the Pikes Peak Region. The first Ambush is planned for Sunday, January 30, at Cheyenne Mountain Resort during the Sunday Champagne Brunch at the resort's signature Mountain View Restaurant.

At this opening Fashion Ambush event, one lucky diner will be selected for an onsite restyling. After the initial shock, the ambushed individual is likely to be good-natured as she is rewarded with a makeover valued at $500 and awarded additional prizes such as a two night stay at Cheyenne Mountain Resort. Ambush subjects receive a wardrobe from the Outlets' designer retail stores like Off 5th, Ann Taylor and CAbi, a complete expert hair style from Styles Salon, professional makeup and fashion advice. The process is documented on film before, during and after the Fashion Ambush and the resulting three minute video segment will appear on Fox 21 for several weeks-- until the next Ambush occurs. This monthly series will provide information, entertainment, education and advice for Colorado shoppers on how best to maximize their dollars and their look, by shopping at the Outlets of Colorado in Castle Rock, Loveland and Silverthorne.

In her role that is much like a stylish and kind older sister, Fashion Director Peggy Ziglin will guide people through the course of the makeover– so that the process is fun, non-threatening, and in many cases, life-changing. Currently Ziglin travels the state in her larger-than-life wrapped and branded Outlets van, and has performed many makeover events at the Outlets at Castle Rock, Loveland and Silverthorne-- or with select television partners, prior to the Fashion Ambush. This year, however, the Outlets will target Fashion Ambush participants exclusively at Colorado Springs' attractions.

"The over-arching idea is that an individual who really needs an update and an emotional boost-- can receive one through this process of a fashion makeover," says Ziglin. Recent recipients of makeovers have been women with success at significant weight loss, an individual with a new career, and some who simply want an update and change of image.

Friday, January 28, 2011

the controversy such a gesture might spark

When Michelle Obama chose to wear an Alexander McQueen gown to a state dinner in honour of Chinese president Hu Jintao last week, she was presumably unaware of the controversy such a gesture might spark.

"My understanding is that the visit was to promote American-Chinese trade," Oscar de la Renta, the designer favoured by the New York social set told Women's Wear Daily (WWD). "American products in China and Chinese products in America. Why do you wear European clothes?"

The perceived snub by one of the world's most powerful women highlighted the often fraught diplomacy required simply to get dressed when your every step and choice of dress is subject to such scrutiny.

And the row didn't stop there. While some fashion bloggers suggested the dress was chosen for the deep symbolism the colour red carries in China, Diane Von Furstenberg, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), issued a statement, also printed in WWD: "Our First Lady Michelle Obama has been wonderful at promoting our designers, so we were surprised and a little disappointed not to be represented for this major state dinner."

The First Lady's choice of outfit, both from the point of view of aesthetics and politics, has always been highly individual. Perhaps she can take solace in the fact that, in ruffling the feathers of the American fashion establishment – and there are no greater exponents than de la Renta and Von Furstenberg – she is in fine company.

During John F Kennedy's campaign, the wife of his opponent Richard Nixon, Pat Nixon, criticised America's soon-to-be First Lady's "continental" taste. Jackie Kennedy duly hired the services of French-American dressmaker, Oleg Cassini, a former Hollywood costume designer. Unsurprisingly, his designs were for the most part pared down copies of the French originals (among the exceptions was the real Chanel wool skirt suit that she refused to change out of when it got blood-stained on the day her husband was assassinated).

British leading ladies are afforded a little more freedom than the trans-atlantic counterparts. While Samantha Cameron is supportive of British fashion – unsurprisingly given her official capacity as British Fashion Council ambassador – she is as likely to be seen wearing Spanish Zara, or Japanese Uniqlo, as she is the London-based designer Erdem, who is Turkish-born.

Power Dressing: First Ladies, Women Politicians and Fashion, by Robb Young (published next month by Merrell) lists not only Michelle Obama, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Queen Rania of Jordan as among the world's most scrutinised women, but also historical icons including Eva Peron and Margaret Thatcher, all of whom have done much good – and on occasion harm – to their native or adoptive country's fashion designers.

On the occasion of Michelle Obama's supposed fashion faux pas, meanwhile, Steven Kolb, the CFDA's executive director, has turned out to be the voice of reason. "Mrs Obama is the First Lady but she's also an individual," he said. "She's going to dress in clothes she feels comfortable in. I don't think she's making a statement. She's just choosing clothes as a woman."

Thursday, January 27, 2011

a much closer interaction with the retailers and consumers

The privately owned parent company of Denmark-based Trollbeads is taking over distribution of the bead brand’s products in the United States, Mexico and the Caribbean, citing “brand confusion” due to competition and a desire to work more closely with North American retailers.

Currently, an independent U.S.-based company handles the North American distribution of Trollbeads to more than 1,000 stores. Beginning Jan. 31, Trollbeads parent company, Lise Aagaard Copenhagen A/S, will assume control, according to an announcement from the company.

“We believe North American consumers, largely as a result of heavily promoted competing products and subsequent brand confusion, have lost sight of what makes Trollbeads unique,” Trollbeads owner Lise Aagaard said. “Trollbeads will dedicate its efforts to work directly and more closely with our retailer jewelry store partners in North America to renew consumer appreciation of Trollbeads’ history, mystique and craftsmanship and to achieve a much closer interaction with the retailers and consumers.”

First designed by the Nielsen/Aagaard family in Denmark in 1976, the original Trollbeads were silver charms with troll faces sold in two family-owned jewelry stores in the Denmark cities of Copenhagen and Lyngby. Today, the Trollbeads collection encompasses charms in silver, 18-karat gold, pearls, precious and semi-precious stones and hand-made glass, with nearly 1,000 bead designs. Trollbeads are sold in more than 50 countries worldwide through a network of independent distributors.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Haute Couture spring/summer 2011 season

The flamboyant French designer Jean Paul Gaultier channelled the spirit of the Moulin Rouge at his catwalk show in Paris yesterday.

The collection, which featured sumptuous and see-through gowns decorated with frothy tulle, was one of the final shows of the Haute Couture spring/summer 2011 season – a week renowned in the fashion calendar for showcasing the industry's most intricate and lavish designs. The show culminated in a model high-kicking her way down the catwalk in contemporary can-can regalia, and was a characteristically colourful affair, with models and the designer himself sporting dip-dyed mohawk wigs.

Gaultier, who is famous for dressing Madonna in pinstripe suits replete with conical bras, is known for his fashion flair – his previous couture show featured burlesque star Dita von Teese.

Other high fashion hi-jinks have included a Mexican mariachi band, and he has in the past asked famous models to do Irish jigs and walk their dogs along his catwalk.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Curves and crystals as Lagerfeld sets pace for Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld lived up to his Kaiser credentials yesterday when he showed his biannual haute couture collection for the house of Chanel in Paris.

Famed for elegant understatement – such things are relative – over and above high-octane image making, his clothes are designed to be worn in real life as well as on the catwalk.

This is true of the Chanel bouclé wool suit in particular, worn by some of his models yesterday, which is never more desirable than when hand-fitted, sewn and finished to suit every curve.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Shown yesterday at the opening of Paris Haute Couture Week

The designer John Galliano can always be relied upon to dream up some of the catwalk's biggest and most beautiful dresses.

His latest collections for Dior, shown yesterday at the opening of Paris Haute Couture Week, was no exception.

Inspired by the illustrator René Gruau, who was close to Dior, Galliano said he was interested in the artist's elegant brush stroke and sophisticated play between light and shade.

That is not to say that this was a monochromatic affair. Far from it, as this voluminous scarlet silk evening coat, topped off by suitably sculptural headwear by milliner Stephen Jones, showed.

Our heroine's lipstick and gloves appear to be in precisely the same shade, a sweetly anachronistic touch, harking back to the days when women appeared entirely groomed and with outfits perfectly co-ordinated at all times.

But, haute couture being haute couture, only very few women are ever likely to own any. This is the jewel in the crown of French fashion, where every garment is hand-fitted, sewn and embroidered by the world's most accomplished craftsmen in ateliers that have changed little – in terms of process – for the past century and more.

Given the man hours that go into the creation of even the simplest of garments, such confections are far from accessibly priced. On this subject the houses remain tight-lipped, although it is widely acknowledged that a tailored jacket starts at around £10,000 and, for more elaborate pieces, a six-figure sum is not unusual.

So what's the point – apart from the opportunity to dress a handful of very privileged souls?

The preservation of a great Gallic tradition is at least part of the story and, with that, the jobs of the petites mains, as they are known, who staff the workshops, many of whom are descended from parents and grandparents who trained with the likes of Coco Chanel and Dior himself.

Haute couture also functions as a laboratory of ideas, allowing principles of proportion, colour and cut to evolve. It is the perfume of a house, as opposed to the less potent eau de toilette: the very essence of a brand. It may be extreme but that's just as it should be. And looks inevitably filter down to the ready-to-wear runway and the high street before long.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Dressing for a deluge looks so much easier on the catwalk

Some trends are more irritating than inspiring.

Take rain, for example: showering the Burberry Prorsum catwalk in Milan last week (pictured, right), it looked almost romantic. Don't let the new found fashionability of a passing shower lull you into a false sense of security, however. Dressing in a deluge is neither as easy nor as aesthetically pleasing as it seemed here, styled by some of the world's leading image-makers and with a wardrobe designed by Christopher Bailey.

In fact, this is not the first time rain has flooded this particular arena – and not in an Australian national emergency kind of way. In London for his spring/summer 1998 collection, Alexander McQueen famously transformed a raised Plexiglas runway into what was basically the most beautiful wet T-shirt competition in history, complete with thunderclaps and a throbbing Missy Elliott soundtrack, "I can't stand the rain!" And don't you just know how she feels. A year and a half later, the Japanese designer Junya Watanabe also dreamt up an indoor downpour, all the better to show off candy-coloured and decidedly winsome designs that were cut from fabric designed by Japanese specialist Toray to withstand extreme weather conditions.

Back down to earth, and inevitably rain presents a challenge to those who care more about how they look than staying dry (that'll be anyone reading this, then).

Some things are true: a designer umbrella is never advisable. Instead, know that this is a particularly crass marketing ploy on the part of a corporate power to persuade those with more money than good sense to invest in something that a) wasn't very nice in the first place and b) they are destined to lose. Umbrellas should be black and portable and the weird sheaths that accompany them should simply be thrown away. Wellies (black) should come courtesy of Hunter, while Mackintosh (with a spanking new London store) is a purveyor of entirely respectable rainwear. Meanwhile the Burberry trench coat – generally best worn cut narrow across the shoulders and chest – is a fashion institution for a reason.

Friday, January 21, 2011

the killer frock is a guaranteed attention-grabber

Whether it's a red carpet showstopper, a gown for an inauguration ball or an everyday dress to wear to work, the killer frock is a guaranteed attention-grabber.

Its ability to make an impression is reflected in the fact that sales of dresses have soared 20 per cent over the last three years, with about 66 per cent of women aged 16 to 24 buying dresses in 2010, up from 46 per cent in 2007, according to research by Mintel.

Dresses have dominated the catwalks for much of this period, with the "statement dress" – often a short, embellished cocktail style – attracting numerous copies.

Memorable designs include Lanvin's short ruffled orange dress from spring/summer 2008, Balmain's green sequinned cocktail style from spring/summer 2009 and Gucci's tea dresses from spring/summer 2006. Of course, the dress never fell out of fashion. But there was certainly a renewed emphasis on it, and it was reinvented to suit numerous different occasions, from smart to casual.

While jeans and a decorative top were de rigueur for a night out until about six years ago, and wearing a dress was deemed old-fashioned and too smart, the trend for vintage clothes was one factor in making the dress cool again. Celebrities were also integral to the dress's rehabilitation, from Lily Allen in vintage ballgowns teamed with chunky sports trainers to Kate Moss in small retro tea dresses, which she later produced for her clothing range at Topshop. Kate Middleton has also been seen wearing an array of dresses, from a Topshop patterned dress to the blue Issa dress she wore for the royal engagement photos. Apart from the fact that the garment was daringly low, it looked far less formal than the bright blue skirt suit worn by Princess Diana when she and Prince Charles announced their engagement in 1981.

It might seem strange that spending on dresses would increase during a recession, but they require little thought, are versatile and the same garment can be dressed up or down for different occasions. According to Mintel, the clothing market for those aged 16 to 24 has also seen solid growth despite the recession, increasing by 17 per cent between 2005 and 2010 to stand at £10bn, outperforming the overall clothing market.

Tamara Sender, senior fashion analyst at Mintel, said: "This growth has been driven by a increasing fashion for dresses, with 2010 seeing a boom in styles such as maxi dresses, which this generation would not already own and therefore would need to add to their wardrobe.

"Skirt purchasing, however, has suffered as a result of this and also because of the trend towards wearing leggings more often, which can often be worn together with certain styles of dress, but less commonly used with skirts."

Without the financial demands of mortgages and families, this age group is able to keep up with the rapid pace at which modern fashion trends emerge. Suzanne Pendlebury, a buyer at Harvey Nichols, said: "Previously our younger shoppers would shop more leisurewear brands for premium denim and luxury basics, such as fashion tees and loungewear. Today's shopper is far more aspirational."

However, this fashion-aware group should know that despite the popularity of dresses, trousers have recently stolen their thunder when it comes to high fashion. For autumn/winter 2010 labels such as Chloe, Celine and Stella McCartney all put the trouser centrestage, and this season wide palazzo pants are a key trend, along with maxi and midi skirts and shirts.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Halle Berry to be honoured at style awards

Halle Berry is to be honoured at the Annual Costume Designers Guild Awards next month.

The Oscar-winning actress will receive the newly titled Lacoste Spotlight Award at the stylish event at Los Angeles' Beverly Hilton Hotel on February 22.

The star-studded ceremony - which pays tribute to the best in film, television and commercial costume design - will be hosted by 'Sex and the City 2' star Kristin Davis, who is bound to woo the audience with her choice of stylish dresses.

Costume designer Julie Weiss will be honoured with the Disaronno Career Achievement in Film and Television Award, which will be presented to her by screen legend Robert Duvall, while Ashton Kutcher and Demi Moore will introduce Julie with a video montage highlighting her expansive career.

Other notable honourees include director Joel Schumacher, who will be presented with the Distinguished Collaborator Award, and the late costume designer Michael Denniso, who will be inducted into the Guild's Hall of Fame.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Burberry's strongest revenue growth of 68 per cent came in Asia Pacific

Burberry, the luxury fashion brand, has boasted that its annual profits will be at the top end of expectations after China helped it deliver a barnstorming performance in Asia.

The group, which has six standalone UK stores, as well as a handful of concessions in Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols, posted a 27 per cent leap in total revenues to £480m for the three months to 31 December.

Angela Ahrendts, the chief executive of Burberry, said its revenue growth was driven by "strong, consistent growth in both retail and wholesales and in every product division and region". Its buoyant update follows that by Richemont, the world's largest jewellery maker, which on Monday said its third-quarter sales jumped by 33 per cent.

Burberry now expects adjusted pre-tax profits for this financial year to come in at the top end of City forecasts of between £254m and £291m. The trading update lit up Burberry shares – one of the strongest performers on the FTSE 100 last year – which closed up by 56p to 1115p yesterday.

Burberry's strongest revenue growth of 68 per cent to £150m came in Asia Pacific, boosted by China where the fashion brand acquired 50 franchise stores last September. Stacey Cartwright, the finance director of Burberry, said: "The underlying market in China is doing very well." But she said Burberry had helped itself with improvements, such as adding more product inventory into the recently acquired stores. Like-for-like sales at these Chinese shops soared by more than 30 per cent. Excluding these outlets in China, Burberry grew underlying sales by 14 per cent globally.

Ms Cartwright said that the UK was "one of the strongest performing" markets, lifted by continuing growth of overseas visitors to London, where most of its shops and concessions are located. "It was very much driven by the luxury customers coming in from abroad," she said. While the Chinese were the biggest spenders in its UK shops, they were closely followed by visitors from Russia, the Middle East and Continental Europe.

Globally, Burberry said it had benefited from strong demand across its product range including Prorsum trench coats, shoes, small leather goods and men's accessories. In menswear, it cited strong demand for "man bags", which sell for between £295 and £895.

Retail sales surged by 40 per cent to £335m over the quarter, while wholesale revenues rose by 15 per cent to £112m. Excluding China, which transferred to retail following the store acquisitions, wholesales revenues jumped by 35 per cent.

In the second half, Burberry plans to keep up with its expansion plans, adding 25 per cent of new space in the period. Of this, about 15 per cent will come in China. Andy Wade, an analyst at Numis Securities, said: "We expect the ongoing roll-out to underpin Burberry's growth trajectory."

Licensing revenues, the smallest part of Burberry's operation, fell by 11 per cent to £23m, hit by the impact of planned terminations of licences in menswear and Japanese non-apparel.

Monday, January 17, 2011

Fashion is a workhorse in this context

Many of the Golden Globe winners Sunday night are talented, but they’re also very glamorous. Most of the female nominees and presenters are regularly among the top fashion vote-getters — Angelina Jolie, Anne Hathaway, Nicole Kidman, Scarlett Johansson, Amy Adams — and some of them have had contracts with major fashion houses, as Natalie Portman, who won for “Black Swan,” does with Dior. And I expect to see all their Globes pictures splashed across European gossip magazines next week during the Paris couture shows. That’s the payoff that the Hollywood Foreign Press Association expects.

Fashion is a workhorse in this context. Annette Bening may have had on a great-looking Tom Ford lace column, but her un-coiffeur and horn rims seemed almost calculated to avoid inclusion in the usual post-show mop-up of trends. She won for a fine little movie, she seems to have a nice family, and she’s married to Warren Beatty. Why agonize over the rest? I loved Robert De Niro’s wise and funny speech about the hypocrisies of the business — yes, the guy who made “Raging Bull” and “The Godfather” also made “The Fockers” and, yes, he did it for the money — with Matt Damon’s wry take on self-involved, culturally illiterate stars.

Despite the time and attention designers give to the Globes red carpet, you can never be sure how things will turn out. I think this was a pretty good fashion night. There was variety in terms of design and color — all those shades of pink and the surprise of emerald on Ms. Jolie, Mila Kunis and others — and I thought with few exceptions the women and the gowns seemed well matched. There were also fewer frozen heads — that is, a number of women including Ms. Jolie, Ms. Kidman and Sandra Bullock, skipped the up-dos and wore their hair down and loose.

The amount of beadwork on the carpet did come as a surprise; I guess the Globes isn’t the relaxed evening it once was. Was there a short dress in the crowd? Halle Berry and January Jones kept things sexy and moderately daring, while Emma Stone, Claire Danes and Tilda Swinton (in Jil Sander) were widely praised for their minimalist looks. It was big night for the Calvin Klein company, which dressed Ms. Danes and Ms. Stone.

Over all, I thought Ms. Jolie, Ms. Hathaway and Ms. Portman had the most to offer carpet watchers — Ms. Jolie for her shrugged-on green Versace dress, Ms. Hathaway for the imposing cut of her Armani column and its welcomed long sleeves, and Ms. Portman because her cheery, rose-kissed Viktor & Rolf reflected her mood.

Helena Bonham Carter’s print-and-tulle dress was not so interesting in itself — a classic bit of Vivienne Westwood — but Ms. Carter, English and eccentric, seemed to understand its effect on her. Julianna Margulies picked a Saint Laurent gown, with a small black bodice and a draped pink skirt. Ms. Margulies rarely gets it wrong, and maybe the archive design looked better in person, but some greater pizzazz was needed to carry it off.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Skirts are longer this season

When times are good, so the old adage says, hemlines go up.

In that case, times must be very, very bad – because the way to wear your skirts for spring/summer 2011 is very definitely Below The Knee. It's a trend that has been on the periphery of the high street for some time, as well as on the catwalks of those discerning designers who deal in thought-provoking and intellectualised silhouettes. Now, though, thoughtful intellectuals step aside: everyone's getting in on the act and there are plenty of interpretations to choose from.

"My favourite long skirts of the season were at Lanvin," says Miranda Almond, fashion editor at Vogue. "I also loved the way Richard Nicoll used the new longer length with his pleated midi-length white skirt, and the hopelessly romantic tulle overskirts at Chloé, that were light as a feather and looked so pretty to wear."

From Grecian to gothic, there were long skirts aplenty at the collections – and long doesn't necessarily mean trailing-on-the-floor or getting-caught-in-your-bicycle-spokes. "The long skirt emphasises the full length of a woman's silhouette," says designer Marios Schwab, whose rock'n'roll collection this season included toughened-up Grecian drapery, "and evokes a new visual of sophisticated sexiness."

There are mid-length cuts, hitting calfs halfway between the knee and ankle; there are slim-fit tube skirts, as well as voluminous numbers; there are A-line versions that fall to just under the knee. What there isn't, though, is the great swathes of thigh that we associate with summer dressing, the micro-minis and the hot pants, the other terrifyingly unwearable staples of hot weather and cool kids. Something has changed in the fashion consciousness.

"Long skirts have a long history to do with modesty and status," explains Caroline Evans, professor of fashion history at Central Saint Martins. "There was an increased focus on legs before the First World War, with skirts designed to be seen in motion. Then, in the Twenties, skirt length was linked to women being more active, with sport and dancing."

The long skirt has, understandably enough, gained something of a reputation for being for fuddy-duddies – a bit droopy, a bit (apologies here) "art teacher". If the Flappers didn't want to wear them, then why on earth should we, as liberated and sassy modern women? Because they're every bit as provocative and directional as a flash of ankle or a miniskirt was in its heyday. Try picturing Katie Price in a long skirt, or anyone on Strictly Come Dancing, for that matter.

And then there's the fact that many catwalk stylings saw the long skirt paired with things that were decidedly drab, such a sloppy jumpers or cropped retro knits – in the case of the Jil Sander show, vivid, jewel-coloured skirts were worn with plain white T-shirts, of the sort you might normally wear to the gym, or to bed. This new trend is no hi-octane glitz, Baden-Baden maxi-dress revival. The Independent fashion desk is loath, in fact, to even use the word "maxi", so tainted has it become by the likes of Coleen Rooney and Holly Willoughby.

"I've always loved longer skirts," says designer Kinder Aggugini, "so I draped a full tail that would open and inflate with a fast walk and rest softly when motionless." From full and colourful cotton at Marc Jacobs to dramatically slit monochrome at Ann Demeulemeester, current versions are more grungily casual than previously, less whimsical and attention-grabbing.

"I like dressing it down with a simple T-shirt or loose silk shirt for an easy, relaxed feel," says Vogue's fashion director Kate Phelan of hers. "Long skirts can be practical but also very stylish – just keep it simple and wear them like you wear your jeans for day."

They're also, contrary to popular myth, easy to pull off, regardless of shape and stature. "If you're petite, go for an A-line midi," adds Miranda Almond. "If you're curvy, choose a more drapey fabric – they're incredibly flattering to wear, especially for anyone worried about their shape, and make you feel covered yet fashionable."

For anyone less than Amazonian, a platform wedge is both current and convenient when it comes to puddles; meanwhile, a mid-length skirt will look both preppy and chic worn with rolled-down socks and flat brogues. "Team a long skirt with a wedge," counsels founder of my-wardrobe.com Sarah Curran, "and then nip in the waist with a belt for a more defined shape. Throw on a white blazer for a chic, sophisticated workwear look."

Longer length skirts have been confined to the fashion hinterland for so long that there is a generation of young women who haven't even tried them out. "It's fun to wear something you've never worn before," says Caroline Evans. "Fashion is defined by rapid style changes. It never stands still – so after the mini comes the maxi. After all, nothing is less fashionable than the recently out-of-fashion."

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Mackintosh's high fashion credentials are bolstered by the fact that

Conceived almost 200 years ago by a Glasgow chemist with an interest in rubber and turned into a fashion icon by stars such as Audrey Hepburn and Steve McQueen, the Mackintosh became the venerable British brand that lost its way. Next week, it seals a remarkable comeback with its first stand-alone store.

Combining decades of heritage and a new-found popularity among wearers more concerned with style than practicality, the brand once favoured by flashers and private detectives will move in a more luxurious direction with a shop in Mount Street in London's Mayfair, where it will rub well-protected shoulders with high-end stores such as Balenciaga, Caroline Herrera and Marc Jacobs.

While the new store is undeniably luxurious, the company has its roots in practicality. It was founded in 1823, by Glasgow-based chemist and inventor Charles Macintosh, who developed a solution of India rubber dissolved in the coal by-product naphtha, painted it on to cloth, sandwiched another layer on top and created the first rainproof fabric.

Macintosh patented his invention in 1824, after which factories began to produce the new "Mackintosh" – now spelt with a "k" – fabric. The first clothing item was a riding coat with internal leg straps to keep the coat from flapping.

The company's range of men's and women's raincoats, that range from slim,single-breasted styles to double-breasted, belted trenches, is now made by craftspeople who have served a three-year apprenticeship. It's still made in the UK in factories in Cumbernauld in Scotland and Nelson, Lancashire.

Those factories came close to closing in the Nineties, when the company suffered financial difficulties. The company was bought out by its Japanese distributor Tagi Tsusho in 2007.

Mackintosh isn't the first outerwear brand to become a fashion name. Burbery, whose coats have been modelled recently by the Harry Potter actress, Emma Watson, has become a global brand while other classic British coat-makers currently enjoying a moment in the fashion spotlight include Gloverall, Barbour, Aquascutum and Lavenham, which makes quilted, country-style jackets.

Mackintosh's high fashion credentials are bolstered by the fact that it makes outerwear for luxury brands such as Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, YSL and the Japanese designer Junya Watanabe.

Like Burberry and Paul Smith, Mackintosh's Britishness has given it a cult status in Japan. The new shop will feature a limited edition range by the cult French label Kitsune as well as a display of archive styles. As with other traditional brands – including Hunter wellies – Mackintosh will have to tread the fine line between tradition and innovation to keep consumers interested.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Spain's greatest fashion mogul is shy

Amancio Ortega, the wealthiest man in Spain and perhaps one of the world's most reclusive moguls, has tiptoed into the spotlight this week by announcing his imminent retirement from the fast-fashion giant Inditex, parent company of the Zara chain, which he founded with a single store in La Coruna 35 years ago.

There were no photo opportunities, no dramatic goodbyes or self-celebratory pomp. The 74-year-old billionaire – who shuns interviews, rarely appears in public and once even dodged a meeting with the Spanish crown prince – simply sent a brief note to his 98,000 employees stating that he would soon ask Inditex vice-president and CEO Pablo Isla to take his place at the helm of the textile empire that brought affordable catwalk copies to the style-craving masses.

"Dear friends," he began. "Now is the moment, with great hope and responsibility, to propose that Pablo Isla be named executive president at the next board meeting." He also praised the "combination of youth and experience" of his successor. During Mr Isla's five-year tenure, the 47-year-old brought Zara and other Inditex brands to fashionistas throughout Asia and recently launched an online shopping site, Zara.com.

True to his style, the humble son of a railway worker who went on to occupy the ninth slot in Forbes' 2010 list of the world's richest men offered no specific explanation as to why he had chosen this moment to pass the torch. But Mr Ortega's age, coupled with the company's healthy performance during the worldwide economic slump, likely had something to do with it. His cheap-and-chic clothing stores – including Zara's sister brands such as Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Zara Home and a new accessories chain, Uterqüe – have managed to grow in tough times, with Inditex sales up by as much as 14 per cent in just the first three quarters of last year to €8.9bn (£7.9bn).

"The situation is optimal for stepping down," said Jose Luis Nueno, professor of marketing at IESE Business School in Barcelona. "The company has shown its ability to drive under any conditions and Ortega is getting close to 75 but is in good health. It's the right time to tell the market that the company is in shape to put another person at the top. You don't want to make that decision if he is suddenly hit by illness or the company is doing poorly."

Mr Ortega's successor already occupies the limelight to the apparent relief of his plain-talking boss, who will retain his 60 per cent stake in the company. Mr Isla handles relations with the government, the stock exchange and even appears at shareholders meetings while the heavy-set founder of Zara toils in the shadows. Mr Ortega is so low-key that, in 2001 when Inditex went public and the stock's value climbed, he reportedly celebrated by watching the news for 15 minutes on television and eating lunch in the company cafeteria.

"When the Prime Minister of Spain called a meeting of the top 20 executives to discuss the economic crisis, they all came except for him," Mr Nueno said.

Mr Nueno believes Mr Isla's appointment signals that the Inditex presidency will not be a "dynastic post". But some observers see it as a generational stop-gap, a move to ensure continuity of the family business by a loyal, well-liked manager until the heir, Mr Ortega's youngest daughter Marta, is ready.

Like her father, who began his working life as an errand boy, Marta, 26, has been slowly working her way up the ladder of the company her father built, beginning as a clerk at a Bershka store in London in 2007. She has since trained in Barcelona and Shanghai and most recently landed at Inditex headquarters in Arteixo.

Mr Ortega may be considered a "publicist's nightmare", but he is among the most talked-about figures of the Spanish business world. His rags-to-riches life story with humble beginnings in Galicia, a poor, rural region of northern Spain, has inspired a generation of Spanish textile entrepreneurs. Some of the details are sketchy, gleaned from interviews with friends and co-workers wary of betraying his desire for privacy. But the storyline is consistent: With no known formal education, Mr Ortega began work as a delivery boy at an upscale skirt-maker at age 13, and went on to become a tailor's assistant. As he observed the distributor's mark-up, he learnt the value of controlling all steps of the production and distribution process, a lesson he applied to the Zara chain.

His first stroke of copycat genius came in the 1960s, when he managed a lingerie shop. He spotted an expensive, flowered designer négligée, and for weeks he fine-tuned what would become his first upscale imitation in his sister-in-law's sitting room, cutting pieces by hand. It sold. Other styles followed.

At age 27 he set up his first clothing factory, and in 1975, he opened the first Zara, with its sleek window display and rapidly rotating collections. It stood opposite a traditional department store, as though symbolising the challenge to come.

Today Zara has become as much a symbol of Spain as paella and sangria, and Inditex is the world's largest retailer, surpassing rivals H&M and GAP. The company is studied in business schools around the world. Its success is attributed in part to an efficient and agile stocking system, which enables stores to immediately adjust the supply on the racks to customer whims.

Mr Ortega, meanwhile, has quietly amassed his $25bn fortune. According to Forbes, he owns properties in Paris, London, Lisbon and Miami, a horse-jumping circuit, an interest in a football league, and he has investments in gas, tourism and banks.

The few photos of the camera-shy billionaire appear blurry, like Paparazzi snaps stolen on the sly. He has never been caught wearing a tie (except at his wedding). He didn't pose for an official portrait until 2001, on the occasion of the company's first annual report.

He does not enjoy working with suited financial types. He reportedly suffered from investment-banker overload while preparing the initial public offering of Inditex stock. "We could see it was absolute torture for him," a banker told reporters at the time.

According to Mr Nueno, he seldom uses business jargon and enjoys thinking about store layout and clothing design more than expansion strategy despite the vertiginous rate of store openings, which at one point reached one every 36 hours. He will very likely continue working after retirement.

"I don't think Mr Ortega is about to go play golf," Mr Nueno said. "He is interested in the soul of the company. I don't think he'll leave this activity until the day he passes."

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

about faux fur fashions today

Just because it’s a little chilly outdoors, doesn’t mean you have to dress in layers that make you look like a shapeless, frumpy sad person.  Have you spotted any appealing faux fur looks around Chandler you like?  Please share your thoughts.  If you have pictures, share those too and they can be added to this article if that tickles your fancy.  There is a little faux fur fashion in stock everywhere we look this season.  You can keep your tots warm when you bundle them up for the brisk breeze awaiting their arrival outside, or get a little something for yourself to make your man smile big.  He’ll be thinking “hey, my lady looks amazing.  I want to take her out tonight and look at her; only her.”
 
Here are some options you may consider wearing around town while shopping, running errands or just hanging out to be seen looking fabulous.  Are you raising a little fashionista?  Let’s see how good she looks strutting her stuff in the Girls' Mossimo Supply Co. Sleeveless Faux Fur Vest which is available in brown or cream, for just $13.98 each at Target.  You could buy both colors for that price.  It’s subtle but sassy.  Hook up your little diva with a cute little skirt, tights, turtle neck and the latest Mary Jane shoes.  She’s ready to go in style now.
 
Don’t have your kid show you up, mom.  Stand out in this cute Mossimo Supply Co. Knit Bomber Jacket with Removable Faux Fur Trim – Polar Bear White.  If you really want to go for the gusto and play the sexy card, splurge on yourself with the Faux-fur Cuff Boots by Colin Stuart sold at Victoria’s Secret.  They are available in black or ivory.  Somebody’s world will get rocked in these boots.  It should be yours.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Neiman Marcus fashion week-Spring 2011 collections

Neiman Marcus finally has the new shipments of the Spring 2011 runway looks. In many of my previous articles, I have talked about and described several designer’s looks and ensembles for the 2011 Spring season.

For four days, Neiman Marcus will unveil different designer‚Äôs runway looks with videos of the various shows of Fashion Week from all over the world. All items include lovely dresses, separates, shoes, handbags, small leather goods, and outerwear. Certain looks are now available for pre-order at NeimanMarcus.com. On the fifth day, Neiman Marcus will reveal all of their 2011 Spring trends, which all styles will be available online and at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide-including the Neiman Marcus store of Somerset Collection in Troy, Michigan. 

Day 1-Monday, January 10th: Herve Leger, Lela Rose, Nanette Lepore, Rebecca Taylor, Milly, Tibi, Narciso Rodriguez, Badgley Mischka, and Oscar de la Renta will be presented, just as in New York‚Äôs Fashion Week. 

Day 2-Tuesday, January 11th: Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Carmen Marc Valvo, Thakoon, Naeem Khan, J. Mendel, Vera Wang, and Donna Karan will be presented, just as in New York’s Fashion Week.

Day 3-Wednesday, January 12th: Aquilano.Rimondi, Fendi, Etro, Blumarine, Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Missoni, Roberto Cavalli, and Gucci will be presented, just as in Milan’s Fashion Week.

Day 4-Thursday, January 13th: Burberry Prorsum, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Zac Posen, Chloe, Temperley London, Giambattista Valli, Cacharel, Akris, and Yves Saint Laurent will be presented, just as in Paris & London Fashion Weeks.

Day 5- Friday, January 14th: All Spring 2011 items at Neiman Marcus stores will be available for purchase and immediate delivery online.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

The ironic fashion statement has now achieved iconic status

Are you woman enough to carry a handbag shaped like a sheep wearing socks and scarf hand-crafted by the petites mains at Ungaro?

It's called Fungaro. "Irony is such an over-used word," says its creator, Giles Deacon. "It's about execution, whether the end result is high end or Carnaby Street."

Moschino's "Waist of Money" jacket and Elsa Schiaparelli's lobster hat are two examples of the ironic fashion statement that have attained iconic status. Both designers relied on an entirely knowing sense of humour but their respect for the craftsmanship that went into the creation of such effective visual jokes ensured that the person wearing them was in safe hands.

At the Louis Vuitton show in Paris last October, in place of the usual press release, was a quote from Susan Sontag's Notes On 'Camp'. "Camp taste is by its nature possible only in affluent societies, in societies or circles capable of experiencing the psychopathology of affluence," it reads.

"I'm not sure that the Louis Vuitton customer will be entirely aware that the zebra print in the collection came from a picture I took on my Blackberry when I was on safari this summer," says Katie Grand, who styles the label's twice-yearly womenswear collections. "Sometimes, when we see the line-up of models just before the show starts we don't feel quite as secure as we did maybe two weeks before when we'd had a bit more sleep. Sometimes we stand there and say: 'God, what have we done? Have we gone too far?'"

Jacobs is no stranger to approaching his metier with tongue firmly in cheek. Who could forget the TV-shaped bag stamped not with the monogram but with SpongeBob SquarePants? At the beginning of his career, as creative director at Perry Ellis, he gave the world designer grunge – and got the sack for it.

The audacity of Vuitton's animal print (pictured), block-coloured Lurex and bouncing golden tassels was a sight for sore eyes. Tigers, Las Vegas, Siegfried and Roy.... Of course, good humour comes at a price. The embroideries for this collection alone cost an estimated £840,000.

"It's not about designers being full of themselves," Deacon says. "You don't have to be an ironic library member to get it."

Friday, January 7, 2011

Eco-fashion does not sacrifice the beauty and aesthetic

Eco-conscious style has been a heaving trend around the world and fashion, which was often once portrayed as a wasteful enemy of the environment, is now evolving into an industry that sustains. Locally, a generation of designers seems to be rallying toward innovation and eco-awareness—from Oliver Tolentino’s award-winning couture frock made of piña fabric to Eairth’s plant and flower pigmented holiday collection. And Jacinto and Lirio is another recent addition to sustainable style’s burgeoning boosterism. Started in 2009, Jacinto and Lirio features fashionable and functional bags and accessories made from plant leatherette, specifically the water hyacinth or more popularly known as water lilies.

Founders Noreen Bautista and Anna Krystle Mariposa were both part of an enterprise development minor in college and had to create an actual business as a course output. While in search of ideas for the project, a trip to Laguna brought them to a livelihood project that utilizes water hyacinth.

Despite its sweet-sounding moniker, the plant is deemed pernicious as its overabundance can cause waterway clogging and turn into breeding grounds for mosquitos and pests, negatively affecting communities in the Philippines and other Southeast Asian countries. This resulted in an effort to rid the waters of the plant and, as Filipino ingenuity would have it, utilize them to create and sell native woven products.

For Bautista and Mariposa, though, there had to be something more than just weaving baskets and mats out of the plant. “At last, we were introduced to this water hyacinth leather by local innovators and it instantly amazed us. This is what you call Filipino Ingenuity! We saw the potential for the high-end fashion market. Hence, this led to the creation of Jacinto and Lirio, which actually means ‘Hyacinth and Lily’ in Spanish,” recounts Bautista.

According to Jacinto and Lirio, each stylish piece is crafted from a mix of materials to give it a modern look, with at least 50 percent of the end product made from water hyacinth leather. The bags cost about P3,000 to P5,000 and aims to target a new breed of consumers they call the Social Socialite. Says Bautista, “We are witnesses to a new kind of woman, a fashion forward woman whose social and environmental convictions are second to none—the birth of a responsible consumer who takes into account more sophisticated motivations with his or her purchases.”

Manila Bulletin:  What is the difference between leather and leather made from a water hyacinth? Do you think that it is as durable as the commonly used leathers made from animals?

Noreen Bautista: We chose it because it was the first one we encountered and we saw the need to utilize the plant because of the many livelihood programs that can benefit from our market. But we recognized that there are several attributes to the material, but we do recognize there are other plant materials that we can use to derive more innovative uses from. Technically the processes to make water hyacinth leather and animal leather are entirely different. But what sets the similarity is the look of both materials. Aesthetically, the plant leather look is already a breakthrough, but we are looking forward to more research and development with the local innovators to make the material better.

MB: Did you ever feel that being an eco-friendly brand makes it hard to produce a piece that is stylish and trendy due to the limited materials at your disposal? Do you think the world of eco-friendly fashion creates a lot of opportunities for innovation?

The eco-fashion trend is really big globally. Europe especially has a strong preference toward eco-fashion. Although the wave still isn’t strong in the Philippines, it will eventually be bigger. But it has to be noted that just because you’re eco doesn’t mean you can’t be fashionable.

Eco-fashion does not sacrifice the beauty and aesthetic. We make sure our bags are made with elegant designs and that is actually what the customers see. People are growing in consciousness of being environmentally sustainable, but they still want to have beautiful products. So our brand must holistically incorporate both. As for the innovation, definitely a lot of innovation can happen for eco-friendly fashion. Just the idea of getting design inspiration from our natural resources invites many opportunities for innovation. As we mentioned, for example, it’s not only the water hyacinth that we can process to be made like leather. We have an abundance of plants that can be made into such a material as well.
 
MB: You also contribute to a special livelihood program of the Cora Cares Foundation. Can you tell us more about this? How did this partnership come about?

Jacinto and Lirio bags are made by women under the training of Cora Cares Foundation, which was founded by Cora Jacob who is known around the world as the “Indigenous Genius.” For 40 years now, Cora Jacob has been designing world-class handbags and accessories. But more important, Cora Jacob has changed the lives of many women migrant workers around the world by providing them with livelihood and training of quality goods.

We started this collaboration when we presented to Tita Cora our business idea. Being passionate with indigenous materials, she agreed to do the designs and that’s when we encountered the equally passionate women who are now expert bag makers in her foundation. We are also closely coordinating with water hyacinth communities who we will be our main suppliers for the leather-like material. We sponsor their training and we treat them as business partners so we can build a mutually beneficial supply synergy for our brand.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Hermes is clearly the gold standard in luxury accessories

A trio of Hermès handbags, two Birkins and one Kelly, were the shining stars in Heritage Auctions' $708,200+ inaugural Luxury Accessories Auction, held Dec. 13, 2010. The auction saw a 92% sell-through rate on lots sold and saw more than 70 bidders take home handbags and accessories from the more than 160 competing. All prices include a 19.5% Buyer's Premium.

"Our expectations for this first auction were quite high and I'm pleased to report that we exceeded them," said Matt Rubinger, Director of Luxury Accessories at Heritage. "Although the sale was in Dallas, and the room had many floor bidders, the major buyers were in Los Angeles and New York and the response before and after the auction has been tremendous. People are very excited about this new category both as buyers and consignors, and the success of this auction has ensured that we'll continue to hold Luxury Accessory auctions for some time to come."

The top Hermès heavyweight came in the form of a 35cm Matte Black Porosus Crocodile Birkin Bag with Palladium Hardware, a bag that celebrities and royalty alike spend years on a waiting list to acquire - and widely regarded as perhaps the finest Hermès bag in creation - rose to the top of the elegant assemblage to bring $50,788.

An Hermès 32cm Shiny Bleu Saphir Alligator Kelly with Gold Hardware was not far behind, proving to be the sleeper of the auction when it rose amidst spirited bidding to bring $47,800, while an Hermès 30cm Shiny Fuchsia Porosus Crocodile Birkin Bag with Palladium Hardware, which was the subject of much pre-auction buzz and press coverage, lived up to its well-deserved hype when it finished the day at $41,825.

"Hermès is clearly the gold standard in luxury accessories," said Rubinger, "and the prices Hermès pieces brought in the auction bear that out. The amounts collectors are willing to spend on the best examples make it clear that these handbags double as investments as well as stylish accessories."

Further Hermès highlights include a 30cm Chocolate Togo Leather Birkin Bag with Palladium Hardware that brought $15,535, while a special 25cm Fuchsia Ostrich Birkin with Palladium Hardware equaled that mark at $15,535, a 35cm Horseshoe Stamp Vert Fonce & Blue Jean Clemence Leather Birkin with Gold Hardware finished at $14,340 and a one-of-a-kind 20cm Shiny Vert Foret Alligator Mini Kelly with Gold Hardware showed considerable strength at $13,145.

Louis Vuitton Show Bags were much sought-after in the auction, in particular the extremely rare Vison Monogramme Mink and Black Alligator Le Fabuleux Bag, 2004 Les Extraordinaires Collection, a stunning bag that was the flagship piece of the 2004 Fall/Winter Les Extraordinaires Show Collection, one of just five made available in the United States at the time, realized $8,963, while a Louis Vuitton by Takashi Murakami & Marc Jacobs 2003 Limited, Numbered Production Eye Love Multicolore extremely rare Eye Love You bag was the subject of intense bidding before finishing at $3,734.

Judith Leiber is always a popular name in Luxury Accessories, and a collection of her stunning and whimsical minaudieres had collectors in all corners of the country trying to get a hold of one. The top offerings of the grouping came in the form of a Colorful Full Bead Money Satchel Minaudiere Evening Bag< and a rare Tomato Full Bead Minaudiere Evening Bag, both of which rose to $4,183.